甘肃卓尼觉乃藏族服饰形制结构及特征探讨

Discussion on the Structural Features of Juenai Tibetan Costume in Zhuoni County of Gansu Province

觉乃藏族服饰形制独特、装饰考究、文化深厚、辨识度高,是安多藏区农区女性服饰的典型代表。文章详细介绍了卓尼觉乃藏族服饰的基本形制,通过田野调查、结构分析等方法完成对服饰实物标本的结构还原,并深入探讨其结构特征。研究表明,觉乃藏族服饰具有融合性与独创性、平面化与组合化、功能性与节约性的结构特点,它是民族服饰文化融合的反映,也是觉乃藏族聪明才智、审美意识和勤俭节约品质的集中体现。

Juenai Tibetan costume is a typical representative of women’s costume in Amdo Region,which has a unique shape,exquisite decoration,profound culture and high recognition.This paper thoroughly introduces the shape of Juenai Tibetan costume in Zhuoni county of Gansu province,restores the structure of the physical specimens of Juenai Tibetan costumes through field investiga tion and structural analysis,and makes a discussion on the structural features of Juenai Tibetan costume.The research result shows that Juenai Tibetan costume has the structural features of integration and originality,planarization and combination,functionality and conservation.It is a reflection of the integration of national costume culture,and also a concentrated expression of Juenai Tibetans wisd om,aesthetic value and thrift.