百年上海电影里的中国现代服饰演进史

The History of the Evolution of Chinese Modern Costumes in Shanghai Movies of a Century

中国民众的现代服装发源于上海,上海都市上流社会摩登的海派服饰发展是中国服饰现代化演进的缩影。中国电影也发源于上海,上海电影天然纯粹地反映着这座城市的进化与演变,其中也包括民众服饰的发展。本文从民族化、大众化的角度,以马克思主义文艺观中典型环境中的典型人物为研究对象,历史性梳理百多年间与海派服饰同步发展的上海电影,通过文献对比、文本细读法来分析影片中典型人物的服饰在不同时代的变化,探讨中国现代服饰演变进程、进化规律与民众的服饰审美理念变迁。

Chinese people’s modern clothing originated in Shanghai,and the development of modern Shanghai-style clothing in Shanghai’s urban upper class is the epitome of Chinese clothing modernization.Chinese films also originated in Shanghai,and Shanghai films naturally and purely reflect the evolution of the city,including the development of people’s costumes.From the perspe ctive of nationalization and popularization,this paper takes the typical figures in the typical environment of Marxist literature and art view as the research object,and historically combs the Shanghai movies which have been developing synchronously with Shanghai-style costumes for more than one hundred years.Through literature comparison and text thorough reading,it analyzes the changes of the costumes of the typical figures in the movies in different times,and discusses the evolution process,evolution rules of Chinese modern cost umes and the changes of people’s aesthetic ideas of costumes.