汉代两京地区壁画墓女性人物服饰研究

Research on the Costumes of Female Figures in Mural Tombs in Liangjing Regions of Han Dynasty

[研究意义]两京地区作为汉代统治的中心地带,代表了汉代的主流文化,而服饰作为“重礼仪、兴教化”“分尊卑、别贵贱”的物质文化载体在其中发挥了重要作用。[研究方法]文章利用考古类型学和图像学的相关知识,对两京地区汉代壁画墓女性人物服饰进行较为深入的解读,[研究结果与结论]研究认为,汉代女子头发多挽髻,西汉以低髻为主,而东汉则流行高髻。女子服饰有襦衣、深衣、襦裙、袍服、衣裙搭配、衣裤搭配等几种,西汉时期以深衣、襦衣为主,东汉则流行袍服,女子服饰下摆越来越大。两京地区汉代壁画墓中女子服饰颜色相对来说更为丰富多彩。

The Liangjing area centered on Xi’an and Luoyang is the heartland of the Han Dynasty rule. A large number of Han tomb murals with a wide range of subjects and unique styles have been discovered in this area. In view of the fact that the actual materials of the Han Dynasty costumes are found to be very few and mostly concentrated in the area south of the Yangtze River, it does not reflect the trend of the evolution of the Han Dynasty fashion. The Liangjing area is located in Gyeonggi and represents the mainstream of the Han Dynasty costumes. It has found more and can better show the clothing color and clothing grade. As the center of the Han Dynasty, the Liangjing area represents the mainstream culture, and clothing played an important role as a material cultural carrier that "emphasizes etiquette and promotes education" and "differentiates respect and inferiority". This article is based on previous studies, focusing on the Han tomb murals in Liangjing area of the Han Dynasty, starting from the perspective of costume studies, using relevant theory of archaeological typology and iconography. Research on costumes is hoped to promote research on fresco tombs of the Han Dynasty. [Research contribution] Through the identification and interpretation of the costumes of the female figure in the fresco tombs in the Liangjing area of the Han Dynasty, it can be known that the women’s hair was mostly in updos. Women’s clothing includes underclothes, deep clothing, underskirts, gowns, dress collocations, and pants collocations. In the Western Han Dynasty, deep clothing and underclothes were mainly used, while robes were popular in the Eastern Han Dynasty, and the hem of women’s clothing became larger and larger. The colors of the costumes of the characters in the Han Dynasty mural tombs in the Liangjing area are relatively diverse, but the hierarchy reflected by the colors is not obvious, and the colors of women’s costumes are relatively more colorful. Due to the age of the murals, the paint has fallen off severely. Most of the colors are indistinguishable. In addition, once the murals are unearthed, their colors will change greatly. They are no longer the same as the murals in the burial environment, so there may be errors in the recognition and recognition of the colors of the characters in the murals. As the political and economic centers of the Han Dynasty, the two capitals have representative costumes on the tomb murals, which can reflect the basic conditions of the costumes of the Han Dynasty.It is of great benefit to the study of the history of fashion, etiquette, social history, and intellectual history in the Han Dynasty.