1912-1936年民国女性婚礼服特征分析

Analysis of the Characteristics of Women’s Wedding Clothes in the Republic of China from 1912 to 1936

[研究意义]为进一步明晰民国时期女性婚服特征。[研究方法]通过图像采集与文献资料整理的方式,对民国时期的期刊杂志进行梳理与统计,共收集到全国各地婚礼照片383张。[研究结果与结论]分析结果表明:1912-1936年,女性婚礼服以上衣下裙式的袄、马面裙或套裙,与上下连体式的旗袍、婚纱为主要类型,并且款式造型日趋多样化;首服中各种头纱的运用极为普遍,服饰配件中皮鞋和手捧花的出现频率也极高,两者的种类和数量都呈现出由少到多的特点,服装风格由相对保守向相对开放过渡。

The Republic of China, in the history of Chinese clothing, is a watershed in the west and east, the alternation of ancient and modern.Since ancient times, marriage has been the first of human relationships, and wedding dress, as a kind of folk costume, plays a pivotal role in wedding customs.The Republic of China, on the road of breaking the old and tasting the new, was free from the shackles of the feudal system, and the reality of the preference for men over women was being changed.From the "Costume Case" promulgated in 1912, it can be seen that the Chinese and western dress forms were fused, and the Chinese style was the main feature;The dress is free from hierarchical distinctions and tends towards the principle of equality.In the decade of the early Republican era, the sense of equality and freedom spread from the liberation of the body to the liberation of the mind,and women liberated themselves from the cage of feudalism and began to set their feet and breasts free. The original wide gown with big sleeves was gradually abandoned in the development of time, and tight-fitting became the trend, which was of great significance in promoting the westernization of women’s wedding dress.The 1911 Xinhai Revolution injected the first new wind into the change of wedding dress is that the impact of thousands of years of marriage six rituals of the system of red tape customs,the traditional wedding dresses-Feng Guan Xia Phi, red dresses and coats, etc. are gradually eliminated, bringing the old and new,the combination of Chinese and Western "new-style wedding", "collective wedding".In the early days of the Republic of China,not everyone could accept this "civilized wedding". Due to the deep-rooted concepts inherited from the feudal society, not everyone was able to accept this "civilized wedding" in the early Republic of China,Western-style wedding costumes were only popular among a certain class of people in the big cities, led by Shanghai, including education, finance, foreign banks, Western medicine and government employees.The group that dominated this trend was intellectual women, while ordinary women and rural brides wore old-fashioned dresses with a jacket and a skirt.The New Culture Movement of 1915 and the May Fourth Movement of 1919 were unprecedented emancipations in modern Chinese history. While promoting a new culture and spreading new ideas, they also brought about a great change in women’s thinking and dress.In this way, modern women began to break the traditional Chinese family division of labor, in which the man was the head of the family, and began to step out of the home, beginning to have an independent personality.The dress, as a physical representation of ideas, reflected the aesthetic consciousness of the people of this era, while the change of women’s dress also marked the awakening of women’s consciousness.Most of the previous literature is a study of the whole period of women’s wedding clothes in the Republic of China.And it is a general discussion on women’s wedding dresses in Chinese and Western styles, and there are few studies on the classification of Chinese and Western wedding dresses,1912-1936 was the period when the combination of Chinese and Western characteristics in women’s wedding dresses was most obvious.Therefore, it is of certain cultural, social and practical application to further clarify the characteristics of women’s wedding clothes in the Republican period 1912-1936.In this paper, we searched through literature search method and read related works and papers and journals to sort out the content related to women’s wedding costumes in the Republican period.Through the collation and analysis of wedding photos and images of the Republic of China period by the method of mutual evidence of illustrations, the types of dress and artistic characteristics of women’s wedding clothes in the Republic of China period are summarized.A total of 383 photos of weddings across the country were collected according to the above method.The analysis results show that: from 1912 to 1936, women’s wedding dresses were mainly of the type of jacket,horse-face dress or overskirt, with the upper and lower one-piece cheongsam and wedding dress,and style modeling increasingly diversified;the use of various veils in the first clothes is extremely common,the frequency of leather shoes and hand bouquets in clothing accessories is also extremely high,the variety and quantity of both show a transition from less to more, and the clothing style from relatively conservative to relatively open.The shortcoming of this paper is that it has not yet started the innovative design practice for women’s wedding dresses and lacks the test of practice.The follow-up work should combine the fashion trends of modern women’s wedding dresses with the traditional features of women’s wedding dresses in the Republic of China to develop innovative designs.Finally, it is hoped that this paper will provide some theoretical help to those who are about to study this direction.