英国伊丽莎白一世时期刺绣手套的社会文化学隐喻与设计理念

Sociocultural Metaphor and Design Concept of Embroidered Gloves in the Period of ElizabethⅠof England

[研究意义]伊丽莎白一世女王统治时期的都铎王朝,是英国服饰刺绣发展的鼎盛时期,手套作为重要的服装配饰和礼物在此时十分流行。文章不仅为都铎王朝服饰史提供一些侧面补充,同时也是英国近代早期刺绣设计、工艺研究的一种途径。[研究方法]以文献学、图像学以及社会文化学相结合的研究方法,通过对文献记载、图像资料和存世刺绣手套,对其发展历史和社会文化学隐喻以与追溯、分析。[研究结果与结论]对此时期刺绣手套典型案例的研究表明,此时期的刺绣手套对女王而言,是具有权利与浪漫双重社会意义的礼物。同时,存世手套上的精美刺绣表明英国都铎王朝时期的刺绣设计、刺绣工艺已达到较高的水平。

Tudor Dynasty governed by Queen ElizabethⅠis the heyday of British apparel embroidery.With the advancement of the Renaissance,embroidered gloves,as important garment accessories and gifts,goes viral under the drive of economic development and social customs.During this period ElizabethⅠis known over the whole country for her demand and liking for luxury clothing and accessories.Add to the fact that exchanging gifts is an important part of social etiquette,the queen can consequently receive vast quantities of exquisitely embroidered gifts presented by subjects.During her government for as long as 45years,every year the gifts received on festivals and momentous occasions are clearly recorded on lists,among which 24 lists are remained until today.Clothing and accessories account for one third among the gifts presented to ElizabethⅠ.Although most embroidery gifts have nowhere to be seen as time goes by,plenty of gloves from Tudor Dynasty sustain,which is the embodiment of not only the level of British embroidery craft at that time,but also multiple socio-cultural implications charged within.This research aims to explore and analyze the symbolic function of embroidered gloves in different rituals and social customs during early modern England so as to further the analysis into their sociological significance in terms of manifesting the queen’s dominance and emotional appeal and interpret concurrently the design philosophy of embroidery during this time with typical examples of gloves remaining till today.Various research methods are employed.Relevant historical documents and relics of embroidery objects serve as the main clue,while the classic gloves from Tudor Dynasty are characteristic instances.To begin with,this research presents the development history of the embroidered gloves in Tudor Dynasty.Those gloves,since their appearance in England in the 11th century,are important signs on ceremonial occasions,which explains their pomp and luxury.The great development of glove industry in England in the reign of ElizabethⅠnot only reinforces its importance and significance,but also intrigues the popularity of perfume gloves.And then this research analyzes deeply the multiple socio-cultural metaphors of embroidered gloves in Tudor Dynasty.Gloves have different implications in the coronation,the church,the court,universities and personal relationships.For Queen ElizabethⅠ,gloves conform with her dual identities as both the queen and a female,because they are not only a symbol of the sovereign dominance of British governor,but also a private metaphor of romantic feelings.Lastly,the research analyzes with typical examples.The No.34 pair of gloves,collected by Metropolitan Museum,is the most captivating case from late ElizabethⅠ.The embroidery pieces of the cuffs consist of two alternate groups of embroidery patterns,which have special implications,unique designs and excellent embroidery craft.The design philosophy of the gloves indicates the good wishes and admiration presented to the queen by the sender,and implies the other side of Queen ElizabethⅠas a virgin queen who looks forward to romantic love.Through the interpretation of their design philosophy and embroidery craft,the design methods and levels of this craft during this time can be revealed.This research combines philology,iconology and sociology of culture together.After collecting relative historical document,image data,the sustaining embroidered gloves and others pertinent to ElizabethⅠ,this research furthers its study into deep analysis and collation,and lastly retrospect and expound alternatively on the gloves in terms of their development history in England,socio-cultural metaphors and design philosophy.The sustaining embroidered gloves produced in early modern England with different types not only display the pomp and luxury of Tudor Dynasty,but become the important clues for interpretation of the dress culture in Tudor Dynasty from the perspective of sociology of culture as well.Researches on typical instances of embroidered gloves during this period show that they have multiple implications and are gifts with dual social significance of power and romance on the part of Queen ElizabethⅠ.Meanwhile,the exquisite embroidery of the sustaining gloves indicates that the design and craft of embroidery in Tudor Dynasty are at a high level.The history of clothing in Tudor Dynasty is an important research direction in the field of European academy.However,there are few relative academic achievements in domestic researches.This research can provide domestic researches with a new perspective of studying the development of clothing and embroidery in early modern England by way of studying one type of the clothing embroidery in Tudor Dynasty with the embroidered gloves produced in ElizabethⅠas the entry point.This research is a trial of studying the embroidery design and craft in early modern England,and also provides a replenish for the study of the history of clothing Queen ElizabethⅠand Tudor Dynasty.