社会文化学视域下的民国服饰色彩研究

Research on the Dress Colors of the Republic of China from the Perspective of Social Culture

以《二十五年来中国各大都会妆饰谈》系列文章及相关历史文献为基本依据,通过社会文化学视角探讨民国服饰色彩的演变历程,以及因不同的社会背景、地域、文化形成的色彩差异。分别从社会制度、政体变更与服饰色彩的嬗变,地域文化与服饰色彩的关系,西方文化的侵入对服饰色彩的影响,以及近代女性活跃者、女学生、演艺明星引领服饰色彩的变革等4个方面展开论述,探讨民国服饰色彩的发展变化及变革原因。研究表明,民国时期的服饰色彩深受政治、经济、交通、西方文化及近代文化思潮的影响,并逐步呈现出民主化、西方化、国际化的发展态势。

Based on the series of articles on the decoration of Chinese Metropolises in the Past 25 Years and relevant historical documents,this study discussed the evolution process and cases of dress color in the Republic of China and the differences in the formation of society,region and culture from the perspective of social culture.The relationship between regional culture and dress color,the influence of the invasion of western culture on dress color,and modern female activists,female students and performing stars led the changes of dress color were discussed,and explored the fashion development and characteristics of dress color in the Republic of China.The research shows that the dress color in the period of the Republic of China was deeply influenced by politics,economy,transportation,western culture and modern cultural trends,and gradually showing the development trend of democratization,westernization and internationalization.