楚汉袍服造型特征及刺绣纹样经营

Shape Features and Embroidery Pattern Arrangement of Chu and Han Robes

本文以荆楚地区楚汉墓葬出土服装实物为对象,在比较分析裁剪、刺绣纹样经营基础上,讨论了袍服造型演嬗及刺绣纹样经营的三个问题。一是考析楚袍上衣刺绣裁片的“斜拼”位置,指出其意义在于满足遮蔽身体之“礼”所要求的门襟“拥掩”增量;二是辩证楚袍袖片正面刺绣纹样“倒置”现象,借由“拱手礼”论证其是楚国礼服的重要特征,进而阐释了楚袍的刺绣面料经营,源于礼仪约束姿态后服饰部位的遮蔽与显露;三是比较分析楚汉袍服下裳的造型差异,探讨楚人“紃”(嵌饰)及西汉坐具“支踵”的效用,认为楚汉之际礼仪活动中身体行为的变迁影响着服饰的形态嬗变。

Taking the costume unearthed from Chu and Han tombs in Jingchu area as the object,this paper discusses three problems of the evolution of robe structure and embroidery pattern management on the basis of comparative analysis of cutting and embroidery pattern arrangement:Firstly,the paper analyzes the oblique stitching of the embroidery patterns of the upper-part of the Chu robe,and points out that the significance of the oblique stitching is to meet the requirements of covering the body,so as to conform to the rules of etiquette.Secondly,this paper dialectics the phenomenon of"inverted"embroidery pattern on the front of the Chu robe cuffs,which is proved to be an important feature of Chu dress by"fist-and-palm salute".Furthermore,it explains that the embroidery fabric arrangement of Chu robe comes from the reveal and cover of the costume after the etiquette restraint posture.Thirdly,by comparing the differences of the structure of the Chu and Han robes,this paper tries to demonstrate the effectiveness of"Xun"(trimming)of Chu robe and Western Han kneeling seat"Zhizhong".It is believed that the changes of body behavior in the etiquette activities of the Chu and Han affect the evolution of costume structure.