20世纪初奥地利维也纳工场珠宝造物中的审美观

Aesthetics in the Jewelry Design of the Wiener Werkstätte in the Early 20th Century

20世纪初,一批前卫的艺术家、设计师、手工艺人于奥地利共创了设计工坊“维也纳工场”,并在珠宝、建筑和时装等领域进行了先锋探索,对后世影响至深。在珠宝造物方面,维也纳工场的设计尤为突出,其“整体艺术”和“为艺术而艺术”的造物理念是现代艺术的先声。该工坊成员在材料选用、设计语汇、协作机制等方面呈现出鲜明的创新之处。同时,他们通过刊发多功能的工作手册、制作品种多样的艺术明信片、参与展览和开设分店等形式塑造其文化品牌,为后世首饰设计提供范式,也为当代首饰设计界提供了有益借鉴。

At the beginning of the 20th century,a group of avant-garde artists,designers and craftsmen set up a design workshop called"Wiener Werkstätte"in Austria,and made pioneering explorations in jewelry,architecture and fashion,which had a profound influence on later generations.In terms of jewelry creation,the design of Wiener Werkstätte is particularly outstanding.Its creation concept of"Gesamtkunstwerk"and"art for art's sake"is the forerunner of modern art.Members of the workshop show distinct innovations in materials selection,design vocabulary,collaboration mechanism and other aspects.By publishing multifunctional work manuals,making various art postcards,participating in exhibitions and opening branches,they have shaped their cultural brands,providing a paradigm for jewelry design for later generations and a useful reference for contemporary jewelry design.