秦汉袍服施色在当代“中国风”服饰设计中的应用

The Application of Coloring in Qin and Han Robes in Contemporary"China Chic"Fashion Design

秦汉统一帝国的建立,为长袍的传播提供了条件。秦朝的高度集权和汉朝的重礼进一步完善了当时的服饰制度,在袍色的搭配上形成了阴阳相映、五行五德五色的服饰理念。在西方文化的强烈影响下,当代“中国风”服饰设计很少关注传统服饰的色彩语言。在当前民族文化自信的大环境下,尤其要关注中国传统服饰发展的软环境。从秦汉袍服发展的软环境入手,探讨袍服五色的成因与影响,强调色彩在传统服饰中的时尚运用的精神重构,为当代“中国风”秦汉风服装设计在服装配色上提供帮助。

The establishment of a unified empire in the Qin and Han dynasties provided conditions for the spread of robe.The high centralization of Qin Dynasty and the heavy ceremony of Han Dynasty further improved the costume system at that time,forming a costume concept of Yin and Yang complementing each other,five elements,five virtues and five colors in the collocation of robe colors.Under the strong influence of western culture,the contemporary"Chinese style"costume design pays little attention to the color language of traditional costume.In the current environment of national cultural confidence,it is particularly necessary to pay attention to the soft environment of the development of traditional Chinese clothing.This paper starting from the soft environment of the development of robe application in the Qin and Han dynasties,explores the causes and effects of the five colors of robe application,emphasizes the spiritual reconstruction of the fashion application of color in traditional costumes,in order to provide help for the contemporary"Chinese style"Qin and Han style costume design in costume color matching.