新型原料维生素C丙二醇透明质酸酯的功效研究

Study on the efficacy of ascorbyl propyl hyaluronate

通过体外功效试验,研究了维生素C丙二醇透明质酸酯的保湿、屏障保护和紧致功效。基于称重法,检测吸湿性和保水性来评价其保湿功效;基于十二烷基硫酸钠(SLS)的刺激,建立3D表皮皮肤损伤模型,检测细胞组织形态学结构的变化以及屏障相关蛋白(丝聚蛋白,FLG)的含量,评价其屏障保护功效;基于成纤维细胞(Fibroblast,FB)模型,通过检测Ⅰ型胶原蛋白的表达量,评价其皮肤紧致功效。结果表明,维生素C丙二醇透明质酸酯具有一定吸湿性和保水性,是良好的保湿原料,并且在300 μg/mL的浓度具有明显的屏障保护功效,100 μg/mL~6 250 μg/mL的浓度范围内,Ⅰ型胶原蛋白的表达量随着浓度的增加而增加,具有明显的紧致功效。综上,一定浓度的维生素C丙二醇透明质酸酯具有保湿、屏障保护和紧致功效。

The moisturizing,barrier protection and firming effects of ascorbyl propyl hyaluronate (V-HA) were studied through in vitro test.By weighing method,the moisturizing effect was evaluated via hygroscopicity and moisture-retention capacity measurements.With the irritation of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS),a model of 3D skin injury was established to evaluate the barrier protection effect by detecting the changes in the histomorphological structure of the model and the barrier related proteins (filaggrin,FLG).Expression level of type Ⅰ collagen in fibroblasts (FB) was detected to evaluate the firming effect.The results show that V-HA has good moisturizing effect according to the result of weighing method.V-HA has obvious barrier protection effect at the concentration of 300 μg/mL.Expression level of type Ⅰ collagen increases with the increase of the V-HA concentration in the range of 100 μg/mL~6 250 μg/mL,indicative of obvious firming effect.Ⅰn conclusion,a certain concentration of V-HA has good moisturizing,barrier protection and firming effects.