荷兰的时尚身份——通过多样性实现统一

Unity Through Diversity as a Dutch Fashion Identity

荷兰时装设计的兴起可以与荷兰设计的成熟相比较。两者都具有概念性的方法,并且与艺术密切相关。正如19世纪荷兰政府希望通过区域性的服饰来促进民族团结一样,20世纪90年代荷兰政府通过提高荷兰(时装)设计的国际知名度来宣传本国具有统一的设计身份。荷兰时装设计发展出了一种表演性的特质,可以使其自身转化为艺术品,虽然由于大多数新生代荷兰设计师的作品在时装秀结束后会立即被博物馆购买而很少能在街头看到这些作品。近来,荷兰的街头服饰被积极地用于显示某种可追溯的身份,展示不同的文化背景。本文旨在展示工艺、新技术,以及向更加可持续的生产方式转变这几种因素如何相互结合,并对荷兰时装设计进行定义。

The rise of Dutch Fashion Design can be compared to the maturation of Dutch Design. Both have a conceptual approach and are closely related to art. Just as how the Dutch government wanted to promote the national unity through the means of regional costumes in the 19th century, in the 1990s the Dutch government promoted the country as having a united design identity by increasing the international visibility of Dutch(Fashion) Design. Dutch Fashion Design developed a performative quality, which can be used to make an artwork of oneself, although these creations are seldomly seen on the streets, as most of the work of the progressive Dutch designers is immediately bought by museums after the fashion shows. More recently, Dutch Streetwear is actively being used to display a traceable identi-ty, showing off different cultural backgrounds. The intent of this paper is to show how the incorporation of craft, new technologies, as well as a shift to more sustainable ways of production have defined Dutch Fashion Design.