唐朝团花纹样元素在手工皮具设计中的应用研究

Study on the application of roundel pattern elements of the Tang Dynasty in thedesign of handmade leather goods

唐朝是中国历史上尤为繁荣昌盛的时代,留存下来大量宝贵的文化遗产。本文从唐朝团花纹样的图案、造型、色彩、文化寓意、时代特征等多个角度分析其艺术特色,并以典型纹样黄地宝花为例,提取团花纹样设计因子,挖掘文化符号的内涵和本质特征进行再创作,探索传统文化在现代手工皮具设计中的应用方法与路径。用现代设计语义唤醒传统文化蕴藏的能量和内在活力,以可观、可感、可用的方式把对优秀传统文化的传承融入当代生活,使之更加符合当代人的审美意识、情感需求和服饰搭配要求,提高手工皮具行业文化软实力和市场竞争力,对后疫情时代手工皮具产业的稳步蓬勃发展起到积极推动作用。

Over the past 30 years,Chinese leather goods have experienced industrial transformation and development,from being"made in China"to being"designed in China".With abundant labor resources and perfect industrial chains in the early stage,China has become a processing and distribution center for many international famous brands of bags and suitcases,contributing substantially to the country’s export volume.In recent years,with the rapid development of the national economy,growth of labor costs and consumption upgrades,the production capacity has gradually migrated to Southeast Asian countries.People pay more attention to the leather goods’quality instead of brand premium.Handmade brand has drawn the public attention with its fine quality and individualized design,and has outmatched mass production in terms of cultural meanings and feelings.Consumers and practitioners are rapidly expanding,making a new growth point for leather industry.Nevertheless,at present,the industry is mainly constituted by individual households or small workshops.Because of its low-intensive mode,product innovation fails to keep up with consumer taste upgrading,making the handmade leather products either too cultured to be appreciated or too homogeneous.Over time,the industry will be either stuck in brand building or seeing sustainable growth.To enrich the cultural implication of handmade leather goods,and make them better satisfy contemporary people’s aesthetics emotional demands and dressing requirements,the paper explores the way of how to apply traditional culture in the design of modern handmade leather goods from three aspects:analysis of cultural characteristics,study of design factors,and integration of design and application.Inspired by the roundel patterns innovated in the Tang Dynasty,the paper firstly analyzes the artistic characteristics of roundel patterns from viewpoints of patterns,shapes,colors,cultural implication and times characteristics.Secondly,it discusses how to absorb design factors from the roundel patterns:selecting the design factors and interpreting its cultural content in the first place,generalizing and reconstructing it with modern design techniques then,and producing a wholly-new design factor which contains traditional cultural spirits as well as meets the contemporary esthetics in the end.On this basis,we explore the way of how to apply design factors delivered from traditional culture in modern handmade leather goods according to popular trends and market demands,so as to enrich the cultural connotation of handmade product and enable the dialogue between traditional culture and modern design.The study finds that the way we select design factors,reconstruct and apply them in handmade leather goods from the patterns,shapes,and colors of traditional graphic designs born in the Tang Dynasty is practicable,and it not only inherits the essence of traditional patterns,but also improves the design level of handmade leather goods,conforming to the aesthetic and practical requirements of customers and effectively resolving the homogeneity of products in the market.The paper provides new ideas for the design and development of handmade products that incorporate traditional cultural elements.By invigorating the internal vitality of traditional culture with modern design semantics,traditional culture is integrated into our contemporary life by making appreciation,feeling and application accessible.In this way,both the cultural soft power and market competitiveness of handmade leather goods are highly elevated,which contributes a lot to the industry’s steady and vigorous development in the post epidemic era.