苎麻原麻纺纱的工艺技术与生产实践

Spinning technology and production practice of ramie raw fiber

为了解决手工拈绩纱在织造手工夏布时效率低的问题,开发了一种苎麻原麻纺纱的制作方法。该方法以苎麻原麻为原料,不经脱胶处理,通过机械软麻和堆仓处理结合来实现原麻的软化,尽可能维持苎麻原麻的色泽,然后在长麻纺设备上进行纺纱。整个纺纱工艺流程中不对苎麻原麻进行化学脱胶处理,减少了强酸强碱的使用,可避免纤维损伤,从而减少了对环境的污染,节约成本,并能充分体现出手工绩纱的风格。生产实践证明:直接用苎麻原麻可以纺纱,纺制的纱线粗细均匀、强力均匀,能代替手工拈绩纱用于仿手工夏布的工业化生产,提高了织造效率,降低了劳动强度。

In order to solve the low efficiency of hand-spun yarn in weaving hand-made grass cloth, a kind of raw ramie spinning method is developed. This method adopts raw ramie as raw material without the degumming process, and proceeds through integration of mechanical softening and stowing to realize the softening. It is designed to maintain the color of the raw ramie, and then the yarn is processed on the long linen spinning equipment. There is no need for chemical degumming of raw ramie in the whole spinning process, which could reduce the use of chemicals in the degumming process and avoid fiber damage, thus reducing environmental pollution and saving cost. The production practice has proved that raw ramie could be spun directly, the spun yarn has uniform thickness and uniform strength, and it could replace hand-made yarn for the industrial production of imitation hand-made grass cloth, thus improve the weaving efficiency and reduce labor intensity.