摘要
[研究意义与方法]文章详细介绍了中国清代满汉女子的妆容特点及其背后的文化因缘。[研究结论]研究认为:在女子面妆上,满汉两族女性虽然各自出于不同的原因,但在脸部妆容的简化上却殊途同归,基本是延续着宋明以来的清雅传统。在乾隆朝,满族在唇妆上出现“地盖天”的款式,这是清代妆容上的一大特色。及至晚清,随着西学东渐,女性妆容开始受西洋风格影响,中式古典妆容的程式被逐渐打破。在妆品制作和美容保养方面,由于历史的积淀,再加上慈禧太后的助推,则不断推陈出新,达到了中国古代妆品史上的高峰。
Makeup,especially the modification of the human body,mainly includes makeup and beautify the feature.This article thoroughly introduced the makeup of Manchu and Han women in the Qing dynasty in China and the cultural meanings behind them.In women's face makeup,due to the Manchu tradition of riding and shooting,they have always maintained a very simple folk customs in life.Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty pursued a kind of health beauty,and their makeup was extremely light.Han women still continued the traditions of the Ming Dynasty.Under the influence of Neo-Confucianism,women strictly followed the social ethos of abstinence and restraint,most of them were humble and pitiful.Although based on different reasons,both Manchu and Han women simplified their facial makeups,and for the most part continued the light makeup trend since the Song and Ming dynasties.In the Qing Dynasty,the most distinctive development in makeup modeling was reflected in lip makeup.During the reign of Emperor Qianlong,a unique trend of Manchurian lip makeup involved wearing lipstick only on the lower lip.In late Qing dynasty,with the increasing influence of western culture in China,female makeups were gradually impacted as well:the traditional rules and principles of Chinese makeup were changed.In terms of cosmetic production and beauty maintenance,there were various kinds of beauty-enhancing techniques and beauty-enhancing products in ancient China,which were very developed.At that time,because of the accumulation in history and the support of Empress Dowager Cixi,Chinese cosmetic and beauty industry reached its climax.
作者
李芽
Li Ya(Department of Stage Art,Shanghai Theater Academy,Shanghai 200040 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第4期1-8,F0002,共9页
Fashion Guide
基金
上海市冷门绝学项目“中国古代妆品与妆容复原研究”(2019ZJX005)
柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护基金一般项目“中国古代妆容研究”(2018)立项第01号的阶段性成果。
关键词
清代
妆容
轻描淡写
地盖天
妆品
慈禧
Qing Dynasty
Makeup
Light makeup
wearing lipstick only on the lower lip
Cosmetic
Empress Dowager Cixi