清代宫廷梳妆用具设计及其审美风格成因:以照容类用具为例

Design and Aesthetic Style of Makeup Toiletries in the Qing Dynasty-A Case Study of Dressing Mirrors

[研究方法]文章选择清代宫廷中照容类梳妆用具为研究对象,通过对故宫博物院、沈阳故宫博物院所藏相关物品进行梳理,并结合史料档案记载,对清宫中照容类梳妆用具的样式进行分析,阐述促使其审美风格形成的各类因素。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:清代宫廷梳妆用具设计从实用需求出发,既有可照至全身的镜屏、壁镜类,又有容收纳与照容为一体的镜台与镜奁,还有形制多样、使用方便的小型容镜。促使其审美风格形成的要素主要有三点,其一为帝王主导的“恭造之式”器物审美标准;其二为西风东渐背景下的对西方器物的模仿以借鉴;其三为一般造物与经典造物互动生成环境下民间器物审美潜移默化的影响。

Since the Qing Dynasty was the peak development of China's palace ware design,while the toiletries,as the daily necessities of the emperor and his concubine,stood out for their fabulous craft and style.They were not only functional,but also carrying the era aesthetic style and creation concept with meaning of etiquette system.As an important part of Chinese ancient dressing set,they were also the epitome of Qing utensil design,especially court toiletries design,representing the highest level of handicraft production at that time,with superior artistic and cultural value.This paper selects the research object of the Qing dynasty palace dressing mirror,it sorts out the related items in the Palace Museum and Shenyang Palace Museum,then analyzes the design characteristics of its shape,technology and decoration based on the records of literature and historical archives.On this basis,it discusses its aesthetic style and explores the factors that promote its aesthetic style.It holds that the design of dressing mirror in the Qing dynasty can be divided into three categories in terms of design styles based on the actual use of dressing and looking.The first type is dressing mirror,including screen mirror and wall mirror,which can not only let people shine on the whole body,but also expand the function of visual space as a partition.The second type is the reception and lighting as one of the table and mirror case,which specifically can be divided into box type,makeup desktop and screen type(screen type).The third type is small capacity mirror,including fold mirror,small hanging mirror,pocket mirror and powder mirror box,they are compact and portable,which can meet the needs of the concubines to arrange their makeup at any time.Delicacy,elegance and beauty are the most important aesthetic characteristics of the dressing toiletries in the Qing Dynasty.In addition,they show the aesthetic tendency of complicated,gorgeous and pretentious,so that revealing the simple and natural aesthetic characteristics.There are three main factors to promote the formation of its aesthetic style.Firstly,the design of palace utensils must follow the aesthetic standard of"respectful construction"led by the emperor.Most of the dressing utensils used in the Qing dynasty come from the production office,so they should conform to the aesthetic preference of the emperor.Secondly,under the Eastern learning from the West at that time,with the prosperity of Sino-Western trade and the missionaries brought the Western aesthetic taste into China,the Western baroque and Rococo art style also catered to the royal family's aesthetic interest of seeking"new"and"strange".The Qing dynasty court ware design had the phenomenon of imitating western ware for reference.Thirdly,the general creation interacts with the classic creation.For example,the artisans in the production office were mostly selected from the excellent folk craftsmen.Some toiletries needed to pass through tribute and purchase,and their aesthetic style was inevitably influenced by the aesthetic of folk utensils.These dressing toiletries were not only the crystallization of the emperor's enthusiasm and the hard work of skilled craftsmen,but also the model of dressing toiletries design in the Qing Dynasty.This paper studies its design characteristics and aesthetic style,explains the factors that formed its aesthetic style,provides research ideas and directions,especially the design of court toiletries.