中古时代女性冠饰演变与丝绸之路妆饰文化交流

Evolution of Women's Tiaras in the Medieval Times and the Exchange of Makeup Culture along the Silk Road

[研究方法]对于中古时期丝绸之路女性妆饰文化的变迁问题,运用文献研究和图像分析的方法,[研究结果与结论]研究认为:①初盛唐时期女性的豪华冠饰为义髻式嵌宝金冠。②其源于西亚和中亚的步摇冠,最早可以追溯到西亚乌尔王朝时期,在魏晋南北朝时通过丝绸之路传入中国北方。③盛唐之后,义髻式嵌宝金冠在西域地区演变为贵妇佩戴的桃形金冠,这是在政治经济影响下,西域民族本身的审美趣味决定的。

With regard to the changes of women's dressing and makeup culture along the Silk Road in the medieval times,this paper uses the methods of literature research and image analysis to study that:①In the early and prosperous Tang Dynasty,women's luxury tiaras were made of gold and inlaid gemstones.②This type of tiaras originated from the"Step shake"golden crowns in the West and Central Asia.It can be traced back to the Ur Dynasty in West Asia and was introduced into northern China through the Silk Road in the Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties.③After the prosperous Tang Dynasty,the gold tiaras inlaid with treasure evolved into the peach shaped gold crown of noble women in the western regions,which was determined by the aesthetic taste of the western regions under the influence of politics and economy.