中国古代女性眉黛及黛砚考略

A Brief Study of Women's Eyebrow Pigment and Inkstones in ancient China

[研究意义]中国古代女性长期以眉黛和墨画眉,黛砚作为研磨眉黛的用具,是基于女性对于眉妆的重视而广泛使用的。[研究方法]文章通过整理文献记载及存世的实物资料,分析古代女性眉黛及黛砚的演变及使用。[研究结果与结论]中国古代女性的画眉用材与书写用材的源流发展呈现高度的关联性,其中眉黛及黛砚的发展相较于文具具有显著的滞后性,其流变不仅取决于各个时期制作技术水平,也与社会风气、女性地位密切相关;眉黛与黛砚作为化妆工具,本身也彰显了古人化妆手法及风格,是中国古代女性生活的缩影。

Ancient China has long and unique makeup history,and the make up of eyebrow is an important part of it.Influenced by the long-continuing tradition of soft pen calligraphy,Chinese women also used writing brushes to draw eyebrows in ancient times.Therefore,the heavily processed solid pigments-Meidai and Ink have become the materials for eyebrow thrush in ancient China for more than 2,000 years by using the inkstone called"Daiyan"as a tool for grinding eyebrow pigment.Makeup,as a painting directly applied to the human body,cannot be directly presented to us because of time limitation.Due to the lack of objective factors such as the lack of archaeological excavations,distortion of image data,and unclear written records,research is difficult.Therefore,this article starts with cosmetic tools,through sorting out literature records and referring to surviving physical materials,from the three aspects of the development of the relationship between ancient Chinese thrush materials and writing materials,the development of Daiyan and the use of Daiyan,the classification and analysis of ancient thrush tools,and then explore the drawing process of ancient the make up of eyebrow,and outline a clearer picture of ancient Chinese women's life.The way of life in an era is inseparable from the social culture at that time,and social culture is based on material productive forces.Therefore,an in-depth analysis of ancient living utensils and production materials is an important way to study the way of life of the ancients.This paper firstly conducts research on eyebrow pigment and inkstones in ancient China,among which the research on eyebrow pigment is mainly based on the analysis of literature materials,while inkstones can refer to cultural relics.After sorting them out separately,compare the two correspondingly,and draw an overall conclusion.From the perspective of vertical comparison,the pigments of ancient Chinese thrush are mainly divided into two types:"pigment"and"ink",which are often collectively referred to as Meidai in poetry.From the Han Dynasty to the middle of the Tang Dynasty,female thrushes mainly used mineral pigments,that is,"Shidai";from the middle and late Tang Dynasty,ink began to be widely used to thrush eyebrows.The ancient Chinese ink was processed from the condensate of burning oily wood.The colors were more intense;while ink was widely used,Dai survived and developed various forms.Daiyan has been following the footsteps of writing inkstones,showing a development trend of more and more delicate and smaller,and lags behind the development of writing inkstone in speed.The use of Meidai and Daiyan continued in China until modern times,until the waxy eyebrow pencil was introduced and became popular overseas.The relatively convenient hard pen calligraphy also replaced the soft pen in daily life,,Meidai and Daiyan gradually withdrew from the stage of history.From the horizontal comparison of the same period,in the entire ancient Chinese feudal society,painting and calligraphy utensils were the absolute mainstream,and there is no lack of praise for excellent writing inkstones in the literature.The ancient Chinese made the pen,ink,paper and inkstone used by literati on the altar of culture,but it is rare to see the records of women's cosmetics.The fashion of"destroying human desire"as a means of pleasing oneself in ordinary life is closely related.Research shows that the origin and development of ancient Chinese women's thrush supplies and writing supplies are highly correlated.The use of eyebrow pigment and inkstones is a corner of ancient women's social life,and it is also the epitome of ancient makeup culture.From the perspective of commodity relations,the development of ancient thrush materials shows a significant lag compared with the development of writing and painting supplies in the study.Often,a material will gradually radiate into the cosmetics market after it has been widely used in the study.On one hand,it shows that under the patriarchal society of feudal society,the needs of women's life are always subordinated to men;on the other hand,from the marginalized status of female inkstones and Daiyan inkstones,it can also be seen that ancient literati education excluded women.Judging from the act of makeup itself,during the era of"Shidai"rule,the eyebrow pigments were hazy and light in color;the colorful eyebrows brought about by the great development of calligraphy and painting the yellow eyebrows,red eyebrows,and green eyebrows emerged as this reason.When thick ink entered the dressing table,the make up of eyebrow of women tends to be slender,and at the same time,it gives birth to the applicability of small inkstones...Social fashion and production technology in various periods dominate the evolution of inkstones and eyebrows,and cosmetic materials also lead the way to change women's makeup styles in different periods.The specific analysis of the classification of eyebrow pigments and inkstones has certain value for us to explore the appearance,aesthetic style of ancient Chinese makeup,and the way of life of the ancients,and it is worthy of in-depth study.