摩梭传统服饰文化的传承与发展——以传统村落瓦拉壁为例

Inheritance and Development of Mosuo Traditional Costume Culture——Taking the Traditional Village of Wallabi as an Example

[研究意义及方法]摩梭传统服饰表现了摩梭人在历史变迁中的文化积淀,为更好地传承和发展摩梭服饰文化,文章以传统村落瓦拉壁为例,采用实地调研结合文献资料的方法,从摩梭传统服饰的分类、造型、纺织等方面展开研究,并从多文化融合、市场竞争的视角下分析其发展现状进而提出相应对策。[研究结论]研究认为:多文化融合是造成摩梭人服饰混融、传统文化意识淡化的重要因素;政府引导并创建民众参与的文化传承机制是摩梭服饰文化生存的基石;改进小作坊生产模式并建立企业化的生产管理标准、重视传统服饰的创新设计是应对市场竞争的必要举措;运用数字化技术搭建摩梭服饰数据库是实现摩梭服饰文化长久保存的有效方式。

As the only surviving maternal culture in the world,Mosuo culture has attracted more and more attention in researchers about the ethnology,folklore,anthropology,religion,history and other ethnic cultures.However,there are few studies considering costume culture.As the carrier of culture,Mosuo traditional clothing not only illustrates the history,aesthetics and values of the Mosuo people,but also reflects the rich cultural deposits in the long process of historical iteration.Therefore,it is important and necessary to study the traditional costume of Mosuo.In order to deepen the understanding of the traditional costume culture of Mosuo,explore its cultural and economic value further,and better inherit and develop the Mosuo culture,a comprehensive study was carried out in this study,and the traditional Chinese village Wallabi was selected as the object of the study.Wallabi is 22 kilometers away from Lugu Lake,and there are 98 Mosuo matrilineal families in the village.In the past few years,the life quality of the local people has been improved and thus the development route of"clothing culture inheritance and economic development promote each other"was explored by actively developing the traditional clothing industry of Mosuo,which relied on traditional costume culture.Therefore,it could be selected as a typical sample for studying the cultural inheritance and development of Mosuo clothing。This study was conducted through field research combined with literature research methods.Firstly,the classification,garment modeling,pattern characteristics,traditional textile tools and textile methods of Mosuo clothing was summarized and analyzed in detail to study the culture of Mosuo clothing.Furthermore,the development status of clothing culture and the challenges encountered in the development process are analyzed from the perspective of multi-cultural integration and market competition.Besides,the conclusions and relevant suggestions were pointed out as the followings:First,the customs and ideologies of the Mosuo people were changed due to the trend of multicultural integration.Not only a mixture of costumes in terms of dressing styles was prevailing in Mosuo,but also higher requirements for the innovation of their national costumes in terms of clothing design were being made for local;In the attitude towards traditional culture,the younger generation of the Mosuo showed a dilution of traditional culture awareness.And the most of them are unwilling to engage in work related to traditional clothing.Second,the traditional handmade textile factory and Mosuo Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum have been established with the help of the government,which played an important role in the development of Mosuo costume culture.In the future,the government should play a proactive role in guiding and creating cultural activities with high popular participation,such as the restoration of traditional Mosuo costumes,diets,festivals,songs and dances,architecture,language and daily life methods,which could make the traditional costume culture penetrate the daily lifestyle of The Mosuo people.Third,Mosuo should change the production mode of the individual workshop and look for a development path of corporatization to increase the output of clothing products to meet the huge market demand.At the same time,the strict production management standards should be established to improve the quality of apparel products for gaining an advantage in the fierce market competition;Fourth,with the rapid development of new media technology and virtual reality technique,the process of digitization of traditional Mosuo costume culture has also been accelerated,and the the severe test faced for the inheritance of traditional Mosuo costume culture and traditional clothing handicrafts has been exacerbated.Thus,the use of digital technology to build a Mosuo clothing database can provide strong technical support and innovative ways for the protection of Mosuo costume culture.It can not only achieve the long-term preservation of Mosuo costume culture but also can help designers to obtain rich information for design and authoring.In summary,we should not only pay attention to maintaining the original style of Mosuo culture,but also should meet the material and cultural needs of the wallabi villagers on the premise of not hindering the development of the Wallabi villages while developing the traditional costume culture of Mosuo.In the new era,we will carry forward the values of Mosuo culture with innovative ideas so that Mosuo culture has a broader space for survival and development.