平、翘臀适体女裤挺缝线设计

Straight seam design of adaptive women’s trousers with flat and upturned hips

文章在标准适体女裤的版型基础上,根据平、翘臀型的特征,调整后困势、后裆斜线、后裆弯和裤子中线位置,做出样裤试穿,分析和比较效果。结果发现:裤子的中心线不仅是类似挺缝线的装饰修饰线,更多的还是调节左右平衡与造型的关键分界线,能够处理好内侧倒八字扭、外侧斜扭、跨腿活动量、前后人体厚度等人体结构关系。

Based on the version of standard adaptive women’s trousers and the characteristics of flat and upturned hips, this paper adjusts the back sleepiness, back crotch diagonal, back crotch bend and the position of the middle line of trousers, makes sample trousers for trial, analyzes and compares the effects. The results show that the middle line of trousers is not only a decorative line similar to straight seam, but also a key dividing line to adjust the left-right balance and shape. It can deal with the relationship between human body structures such as inner inverted splay twist, outer oblique twist, cross leg activity, front and rear human body thickness and so on.