纬弹弧形曲线织物的研制

Development of curve appearance cloth based with weft elasticity

讨论了基于纬弹经管组织研制曲线织物的关键技术。纬弹弧形曲线织物织造时经纬垂直排列,下机后不需再经染整加工,在不同纬向收缩内应力作用下形成经向曲线效应,工序流程较短。纬浮长线组织点与平纹组织点在织物背面疏密分布、位置错落,使得织物正面各根经管呈现不同程度的扭曲效应,外观上有从凸条曲线到平面外观的过渡,形态优美、弹性适中。设计中需从纬弹经管纹样的对称性、纬纱投纬比、组织点配置、经纬向循环纱线数等方面考虑纬向受力均衡性,避免织物变形和卷边。

The key technology of developing curved cloth based on weft elastic warp tube organization is discussed.The warp and weft are vertically arranged during weaving of the fabric with weft elastic arc curve.Dyeing and finishing are not required after the fabric is off the machine.The warp curve effect is formed under the action of different weft shrinkage internal stresses,and the process flow is relatively short.The dense distribution and position of weft floating long line weave points and plain weave points on the back of the fabric make each warp tube on the front of the fabric present varying degrees of distortion effect,and there is a transition from convex curve to plane appearance,with beautiful shape and moderate elasticity.In the design,the weft force balance should be considered from the aspects of the symmetry of the weft elastic warp tube pattern,the weft throw ratio,the arrangement of weave points,the number of warp and weft cyclic yarns,etc.,so as to avoid fabric deformation and crimping.