近代江南民间绣花鞋色彩特征及其影响因素

Color characteristics and the influence factors of folk embroidered shoes in modern Jiangnan

文章对江南大学民间服饰传习馆中馆藏近代江南民间绣花鞋色彩进行实物测色与定量、定性统计,总结江南民间绣花鞋色彩特点,通过色彩布局、色彩构成形式、色彩实施工艺3个角度进行色彩美学分析,并从自然环境、历史文化、思想信仰、生活习俗4个方面探究近代江南民间绣花鞋色彩形成的影响因素。研究表明:近代江南民间绣花鞋主体色大多朴素雅致,并以高饱和度、高明度的色彩进行点缀,形成“大统一、小对比”的色彩搭配,且江南的地域环境对当地绣花鞋色彩构成具有一定影响。对其研究有助于展现江南地区物质文化与精神文化特质,实现江南民间服饰文化的传承与创新。

Embroidered shoes have a long history.They were popular in the Ming and Qing Dynasties,and are still popular in the Republic of China.They are traditional folk clothing accessories in Jiangnan area.The folk embroidered shoes in modern Jiangnan have great regional characteristics in shape,technology and color,and are rich in profound cultural connotation.They are handicrafts that perfectly combine traditional costumes and embroidery technology,reflecting the unique charm of the costumes in the water town of Jiangnan.At present,the researches on embroidered shoes in Jiangnan area are mainly analyzed from the perspective of manufacturing technology,artistic characteristics and cultural connotation,and rarely expounds its aesthetic characteristics and influencing factors from the perspective of color.Therefore,the research on the color of modern Jiangnan folk embroidered shoes can restore the beauty of regional culture and help to carry forward and inherit Chinese traditional clothing culture.This paper made physical color measurement,quantitative and qualitative statistics on the color of modern Jiangnan folk embroidered shoes,which were collected in the Folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University.It summarized the color characteristics of Jiangnan folk embroidered shoes,analyzed the color aesthetics from three angles:color layout,color composition form and color implementation technology,and explored the influence factors of the color formation of modern Jiangnan folk embroidered shoes from four aspects:natural environment,history and culture,ideological belief and living customs.The research shows that the color of folk embroidered shoes in modern Jiangnan has obvious regional characteristics.Most of the main colors are simple and elegant,mostly black,navy blue and blue,and decorated with red,blue,yellow and green with high saturation and high brightness.They form a color combination of"great unity and small contrast".The overall patterns of embroidered shoes are full of rhythm,which can reflect the interest of the material and spiritual life of the Han nationality,and contain profound cultural connotation.Its exquisite embroidery technology also enhanced the visual impact of embroidered shoes and the aesthetic value of patterns.Modern Jiangnan folk embroidered shoes have harmonious color proportion,unique form and exquisite implementation technology.The local regional environment has a certain impact on the color composition of embroidered shoes.The humid and rainy climate,the realistic and pragmatic Wu cultural concept,the fresh and inaction color concept and the living customs of rice farming create the simple and elegant color image of Jiangnan folk costumes,and highlight the gentle and beautiful image of Jiangnan women.This paper payed attention to the combination of empirical research and mathematical statistics,excavated the influence of regional environment on the color of folk embroidered shoes in modern Jiangnan,integrated art science and geography to explore the regional characteristics of costume color.In the future research,we can further explore the age and occupation of the people wearing embroidered shoes in Jiangnan,so as to make the research content more perfect.