弹性针织瑜伽胸衣基本样板研究与应用

Research and application of basic pattern of elastic knitted yoga bra

为探究实际生产中瑜伽胸衣基本样板缺失的问题,测试并分析了6种不同弹性针织面料的定负荷拉伸性能,依据针织面料手工测量弹性运用率最高值设计了0、-5、-10、-15 cm的胸围放缩量,经立裁取样后制衣。挑选15名女性瑜伽练习者,筛选出围绕脊柱运动的4种瑜伽动作,针对4种动作状态下的瑜伽胸衣舒适性做主观评价测试。研究发现:当样衣在胸围放缩量为-15 cm时,人体运动舒适性最高。以舒适性高的立裁样衣各部位数据为基础,结合日本文化式原型及紧身针织服装原型结构设计方法,运用平面制图绘出瑜伽胸衣基本样板,并通过案例实践检验基本样板的正确性,可以为瑜伽胸衣结构设计与优化提供一定的理论参考。

In order to explore the problem of missing of the basic pattern of yoga bras in actual production,the constant load tensile properties of six different elastic knitted fabrics were tested and analyzed.According to the maximum elastic utilization rate of knitted fabrics measured manually,the chest circumference shrinkages of 0,-5,-10,-15 cm were designed,and the samples were made after drape cutting.15 female yoga practitioners were selected,4 yoga poses were screened to move around the spine and the comfort of yoga bras under 4 action states was evaluated subjectively.The study found that the sample had the highest body motion comfort when the chest circumference shrinkage was-15 cm.Based on the data of each part of the drape cutting samples with high comfort,combined with the structural design method of Japanese cultural prototype and tight knitting garment prototype,the basic pattern of yoga bra was drawn by the plane mapping,and the correctness of the basic pattern was tested by case practice.It can provide some theoretical reference for the structure design and optimization of yoga bra.