羊毛纤维表面结构形态对羊毛织物起球和缩率的影响

Influence of wool fiber surface structure on pilling and shrinkage of wool fabrics

羊毛衫穿着时很容易起毛起球,在洗涤时容易出现收缩现象,为了研究羊毛纤维表面形态结构的改变对羊毛起球与缩率影响的一致性,文章采用典型的“减法”和“加法”工艺,即氯化-酶法丝光工艺和2002树脂法对羊毛织物进行整理,采用单因素试验及正交试验对2种整理工艺进行优化并分析。结果表明:经氯化-酶法处理后,织物最低起球数对应的定向摩擦效应与缩率最低值对应的定向摩擦效应不同;而经2002树脂法整理之后,织物最低起球数对应的定向摩擦效应与缩率最低值对应的定向摩擦效应相同。

Sweaters are prone to pilling when wearing and shrinkage when washing.In order to study the consistency of the effect of the change of wool fiber surface morphology on the pilling and shrinkage of wool,the typical"subtraction"and"addition"processes,namely chlorination-enzyme mercerization process and 2002 resin method were used to finish wool fabrics.The single factor and orthogonal experiment were used to optimize and analyze the two finishing processes.The results show that after chlorination-enzymatic treatment,the directional friction effect corresponding to the minimum pilling number of the fabric is different from that corresponding to the minimum shrinkage.After 2002 resin finishing,the directional friction effect corresponding to the minimum pilling number is the same as that corresponding to the minimum shrinkage.