土尔扈特蒙古传统服饰语言初探

A Preliminary Study on the Turghut Mongols Traditional Dress Language

服饰语言是对服装文化的一种描述或是诠释,是向人们表达服装深层情感的一种方式。土尔扈特蒙古传统服装以其鲜明的个性特征和多姿多彩的写意纹饰,传递出丰富的服饰语言,但是,作为众多民族服饰中的一支,人们更多关注的是它的款式、质地、特色,很少关注到在美丽与功能的背后,通过纹饰、图样、款式、颜色、佩饰等表达出的服饰语言。目前,对土尔扈特蒙古传统服饰语言的研究,笔者基本没有找到相关论述或者研究性文字,本文根据笔者多年在土尔扈特蒙古群众聚居地调查笔录,结合对传统民间手工艺人采访调研,在对土尔扈特蒙古传统服饰进行对比分析的基础上,就土尔扈特蒙古传统服饰语言进行初步探讨,期待为更好地解读土尔扈特蒙古传统服饰文化提供一些基础素材。

Clothing language is a description or interpretation of clothing culture and a way to express people’s deep passion of clothing. The traditional clothing of the Turghut Mongols, with its distinctive characteristics and colorful freehand brushwork patterns, conveys a rich clothing language. However, as a member of many national costumes, people pay more attention to its style, texture and characteristics while little attention to the ethnical clothing language expressed by these patterns, designs, styles, colors, accessories, etc. behind its beauty and functions. At present, the research on the traditional dress language of Turghut Mongols is still in need, and there is basically no relevant discussion or research text. Based on the investigation records of many years in the settlement of Turghut Mongols, and combined with the interview and investigation with traditional folk craftsmen, this paper makes some preliminary discussions on the language of Turghut dress from the perspective of comparative analysis of traditional dress, with the expectation to provide some basic materials for a better interpretation of the Turghut traditional clothing culture.