摘要
国际时尚设计潮流体系,本来是由占领世界文化主流前沿的上游来决定的。“国潮风”的兴起,说明中国设计开始关注代表自身文化的流行趋势把握、时尚设计体系和设计话语权问题。时尚设计潮流体系话语权的核心,是一个国家和民族在国际时尚设计体系里的文化影响力。任何时尚设计潮流趋势的发布,如果不能够占领主流文化的前沿,远离自身的文化话语权,只能是狭隘民族主义的自言自语。建立在经济基础之上的未来时尚设计潮流体系建构中,应该思考如何建构国家时尚设计美学品格。时尚潮流的表达应该摒弃一些具象的、浅表的形式表象,更深层次地阐发某种东方美学精神内核,将传统元素活化,并进行现代设计转换,用年轻人熟悉的形式语言,讲好今天的中国设计故事和品牌故事。进而引导时尚设计潮流和倡导东方美学精神在中西时尚文化之间架桥,创造一种有价值的概念文本,建立某种设计语权体系,确立文化设计价值,形成自己的设计美学品格。
The trendy system of international fashion design was once dominated by the mainstream of world culture.After the rising of“The Chinese Style”,Chinese design is attaching importance to its cultural fashion trend,fashion design system and design discourse power.The essence of fashion design trend system embodies a nation’s cultural impact in international fashion design system.Any release of fashion design trend turns out to be the narrow nationalist monologue if it cannot occupy the frontier of mainstream culture and stay far away from its own cultural discourse power.Based on the economic foundation of future fashion design trend system,how to construct the aesthetic character of national fashion design should be considered.Fashion trend should discard some concrete and shallow form and deeply explore the oriental aesthetic spiritual essence.Traditional elements can be transformed into modern design elements and the stories of modern Chinese design and Chinese brands should be told in young people’s familiar fashion language.Therefore,introducing fashion design trend and promoting oriental aesthetic spirit can bridge over between the fashion cultures of the East and the West,a valuable idea text can be created,design discourse power can be set up,and cultural design value and design aesthetic character be established.
出处
《服装设计师》
2022年第9期14-23,共10页
Fashion China
基金
国家哲学社会科学(艺术学)重大项目“设计美学研究”阶段性成果(批准号19ZD23)。
关键词
国潮风
国家
时尚
设计美学
品格
The Chinese Style
Nation
Fashion design aesthetics
Character