北魏女性襦裙腰线提升现象探析

Analysis on the Phenomenon of Waistline Improvement of Female Skirts in the Northern Wei Dynasty

从存世的女性图像资料来看,北魏时期的襦裙腰线已呈渐进式的提升特征。现有研究多认为女性襦裙腰线提升是文化交流的产物,忽略了服饰作为感知社会秩序的媒介,暗含时代的精神风韵与政治意涵。本文结合相关文献资料和图像资料,一方面从设计学与服饰美学角度分析,高腰襦裙式样与名士价值联系极为紧密,是对南朝士现有研究多认为女性襦裙腰线提升是文化交流的产物人所追求的“高逸”身体美的模仿;另一方面从北方政权树立文化正统形象的角度阐释襦裙腰线提升的政治动因。

According to the existing female image data,waistlines of famale skirts in the Northern Wei Dynasty were gradually improved.Existing studies mostly believe that the improvement of female skirts and waistlines is the product of cultural communication,ignoring clothing as a medium to perceive social order,which implies the spiritual charm and political implications of The Times.Combining relevant literature and image data,this paper analyzed from the perspective of design and costume aesthetics on the one hand and found that the high-waist skirt style was closely related to the value of celebrities,which was an imitation of the"Gao Yi(高逸)"body beauty pursued by scholars in the Southern Dynasty.On the other hand,from the perspective of establishing the cultural orthodox image of the northern regime to explain the political motivation of skirt waistline.