从“三寸金莲”到“粉腿”:性感区域转移后的近代女性时尚与现代性

From"Small-Feet"to“Fentui”:A New Style after Shifting Erogenous Zone and Modernity in Modern China

文章考查了从“小脚”到“腿”的时尚演变。这个过程的发生一方面和放足运动紧密相连;另一方面又与20世纪20年代崛起的近代洋袜业息息相关,其广告招贴画以视觉文本的形式最先塑造了腿的性感视域。本文在以上历史大叙事的背景下,以广告招贴画、档案、报刊新闻、小说等为依托,结合近代服饰变化、审美趣味,讨论了从脚—腿—身体的观看转变,呈现出西方时尚进入中国后,女性面临的穿衣处境以及外来时尚本地化的历史过程。

It took more than half a century for Chinese women to change from binding their feet to show their legs.This process was accompanied by the development of the modern hosiery industry in the 1920s,in which adverts helped reconfigure the fetishized female foot and often in highly sexualized ways.The change has changed the way of viewing woman’s bodies,thus putting women in a contradictory situation,but at the same time reflecting woman’s unique fashion modernity.Footwear determines the way of seeing woman’s bodies.Behaviors such as showing legs,dressing stockings,and powdering legs made women into a contradictory situation,but at the same time revealed the women’s fashion modernity.