西方女性紧身胸衣的演变特征探究

Research on the Evolution Characteristics of Western Female Corset

紧身胸衣的演变贯穿了西方古典服装的发展史,文章通过调研17~19世纪紧身胸衣的款式图、结构图,实物图等资料,以服饰文化、服装造型、服装结构为出发点,探究了从贵族妇女逐渐过渡到各个阶层女性的紧身胸衣穿着对象;剖析了从量体裁衣发展为工业化批量生产的制作工艺;讨论了从亚麻、棉布变为丝绸、锦缎、羊毛等华贵材料的面料;分析了从纯色到色彩丰富并有刺绣、宝石、珍珠等的装饰;阐述了从夸张的倒三角立体形态优化到圆润饱满、贴合女性胸腰臀曲线的S型的形制;解析了从单一的两片式减法分割线优化到符合女性自然形态的多片式结构。文章对西方古典紧身胸衣演变特征的多元化梳理,可为现代服装设计提供参考。

The evolution of corset has run through the development history of Western classical clothing.This paper,based on the investigation of the style,structure and physical pictures of corset in the 17th-19th century,explores the wearing objects of corset from the aristocratic women to the women of all levels from clothing culture,clothing shape and clothing structure.The manufacturing process from tailor-made to industrial mass production is analyzed,the fabrics from linen and cotton to silk,brocade and wool is discussed,the decoration from pure color to rich color with embroidery,gems and pearls is analyzed,the optimization from the exaggerated inverted triangle three-dimensional shape to the round and full S-shaped shape is expouded,and the evolution from a single two-piece subtraction split line to a multi piece structure conforming to the natural shape of women is analyzed.The analysis of the evolution characteristics of western classical corset from many aspects can provide reference for modern clothing design.