潘通肤色指南与CM2600d在肤色改善功效评估中实用性与相关性研究

Relevance and practicality of PANTONE skin tone guide and CM2600d in the clinical skin tone efficacy

验证潘通肤色指南在临床功效测试中对于化妆品标准肤色评估中的实用性和有效性。选取32名女性受试者,每日使用精华液产品帮助改善肤色,并在产品使用前、使用后即刻、使用后1周、2周和4周进行肤色测量和评估,分别采用CM2600d客观仪器测量和潘通肤色色卡视感评估,通过将使用潘通色卡的视感评估结果转化为量值,并将视感评估结果与CM2600d仪器测量结果进行对比分析。潘通色卡评估的皮肤明亮度与CM2600d测得的L值,b值和ITA°呈显著相关(P<0.05),色卡编码明亮度与L值和ITA°呈显著负相关,即肤色越亮,L值越大(r=-0.352),ITA°越大(r=-0.470),明亮度与ITA°的相关性较为紧密(|r|>0.4)。潘通色卡评估的皮肤色度与CM2600d测得的L值,a值和b值呈显著相关(P<0.05),色卡编码色度与L值和b值呈显著正相关,色度越偏黄,L值越大(r=0.244),b值越大(r=0.470),且色度与b值的相关性较为紧密(r>0.4)。色度值与a值呈显著负相关(r=-0.314),色卡评估的肤色越偏红,a值越大;色卡评估的色度值与ITA°值无显著相关性(P>0.05)。使用两种方法对产品功效进行评估的结果表明,视感评估对于产品的长效效果评价较好,而仪器测量对于产品短效评价较好。使用潘通肤色色卡的视感评估结果与仪器测量结果有较好的相关性。

The effectiveness of the Pantone Skin Tone Guide in the evaluation of standard skin color in clinical efficacy tests was verified.32 female subjects were selected to use essence every day to help improve skin tone for 4 weeks.Skin tone evaluation via CM2600d and visual evaluation by PANTONE Skin Tone Guide was performed before product use,immediately after use,and use for 1 week,2 weeks and 4 weeks.Results of visual evalution by Pantone Skin Tone Guide were converted into quantitative values,and compared with that of CM2600d instrument measurement.The skin brightness evaluated by visual evaluation with Pantone Skin Tone Guide was significantly correlated with the L value,b value and ITA° measured by CM2600d (P<0.05).The visual brightness was significantly negatively correlated with the L value and ITA°.The correlation between brightness and ITA° was relatively close (|r|>0.4).The skin color degree by visual evaluation with Pantone Skin Tone Guide was significantly correlated with the L value,a value and b value measured by CM2600d (P<0.05).The visual color degree was significantly positively correlated with the L value and the b value.The more yellow,the larger the L value (r=0.244) and the larger the b value (r=0.470).Furthermore,b value had a strong correlation with visual color degree (r>0.4).The color degree value had significant negative correlation with the a value (r=-0.314).The redder the skin color,the larger the a value.While the visual skin color degree value had no significant correlation with the ITA° value (P>0.05).In comparison of visual evaluation and instrument measurement,visual evaluation was better for evaluating long-term effect while instrument measurement was more sensitive for evaluating short-term effect.In conclusion,there is good correlation between the results by visual evaluation using PANTONE Skin Tone Guide and by the instrument measurement.