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设计美学视域下的艺术染整“文本创新” 被引量:6

Content innovation of art dyeing and finishing from the perspective of design aesthetics
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摘要 艺术染整“文本创新”对服装原创设计意义重大,它赋予艺术染整图式“意义”,使服装设计更具原创视觉特征和文化个性蕴涵。文章从设计美学的视角,重点讨论了服装设计与艺术染整视觉创新之间的关系。结合当前国内外优秀服装设计案例,从“自然、绿色、民族、艺术、科技”五个方面,分析艺术染整视觉创新在服装设计创作中的应用,提出了艺术染整超越“工艺本体”进行“文本创新”的观点,为中国时尚创意与服装品牌创新提供一种新的设计思路和方法。 C hina is the world’s largest producer and exporter of textiles and clothing.In recent years,the foreign trade of China’s textile industry has continued to grow.In the first quarter of 2022,China’s textile and garment exports reached US$72.25 billion,up 11.2%year on year,and the export volume reached a record high.However,compared with other trading powers,China has fallen behind.Due to the relatively extensive trade growth mode,the added value of China’s export clothing products is not high.Meanwhile,the brand originality and core competitiveness are weak and the lack of international fashion voice can be seen for this industry.Therefore,to adapt to the domestic cycle,international and domestic double cycle development new pattern,so as to speed up the pace of transforamation of growth mode,China is expected to enhance the market competitiveness of Chinese clothing brand and realize from"manufacturing power"to"brand power"by improving p roduct quality and brand added value.It is currently an urgent problem in China’s fashion industry.As a special process of clothing design language innovation and fabric visual aesthetic creation,"artistic dyeing&finishing"is conducive to expanding the creative space of clothing fashion,and is an important way to deepen the brand strategy to achieve high-quality development.In order to accelerate the internationalization process of Chinese fashion brand innovation,this paper analyzes the relationship between the connotation of artistic dyeing and finishing process and clothing design from the perspective of design aesthetics,and systematically combs and analyzes the historical evolution of art dyeing and finishing.Through the method of"etymology"textual research,the article clarifies the specific content and application field of text innovation,and then discusses the artistic dyeing and finishing process ontology and the path of"text innovation".Combining the design practice and the design cases of excellent clothing brands at home and abroad,it also explores the internal coupling relationship between artistic dyeing and finishing visual innovation and text innovation from five dimensions of"nature,non-pollution,nation,art and technology",Under the theoretical framework of design aesthetics,the view has been put forward that artistic dyeing and finishing goes beyond the"process ontology"for"text innovation"and provides a new design idea and method for Chinese fashion creativity and clothing brand innovation.The research found that excellent design brands at home and abroad mostly use the visual differentiated creativity of artistic dyeing and finishing process,integrate the idea of"text innovation"and text schema in the clothing carrier,highlight the original power of the brand,and make the products more cultural characteristics and competitive.At present,China’s garment industry is in a critical period of transformation and upgrading.Improving the text innovation and visual creativity ability of artistic dyeing and finishing is another way to enhance the international fashion voice and market competitiveness of Chinese brands.The research results can provide an idea and reference for clothing brand innovation and product research and development.However,with the rapid development of science and technology and the change of cultural ideological trend,the trace ability and practice path of the"text innovation"of artistic dyeing and finishing have also changed accordingly.Based on this,there is still room for further research on artistic dyeing and finishing"text innovation"in process attributes and text expansion.
作者 王银明 顾鸣 刘素琼 WANG Yinming;GU Ming;LIU Suqiong(Famous Teacher Workshop,Jiangyin Polytechnic College,Jiangyin 222205,China;Jiangsu Huayi Gu Ming Art Dyeing and Finishing Studio,Hai’an 226600,China;Academy of Arts,Jinling Institute of Technology,Nanjing 211169,China)
出处 《丝绸》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2022年第9期97-106,共10页 Journal of Silk
基金 国家社科基金艺术学重大项目(19ZD23) 江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究基金项目(2020SJB0444,2020SJA0547)。
关键词 设计美学 服装设计 艺术染整 文本创新 中国原创 时尚话语权 品牌应用 design aesthetic clothing design artistic dyeing and finishing text innovation Chinese original fashion voice brand application
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