“旧装”换“新颜”:上海旧衣改制的开展与节约实践的形成(1956—1966)

Old Dresses,New Look: Reusing Old Clothes in Shanghai’s Thrift Campaign,1956—1966

旧衣改制原本是一种普通的日常生活方式,新中国成立后,因布匹资源紧缺,被国家纳入管治范围。1956年,上海市政府正式推行旧衣改制,并于“大跃进”时期,通过树立典型、扩张组织结构和推广剪裁技术,将其推向高潮。改制旧衣的工价和价值性均较低,故遭到服装店的抵制,但是因赶超型工业化战略的实施,政府还是通过加强政治宣传和制定低工价的方式继续推行。改制旧衣之所以能够持续下去,不仅在于国家权力的推动,还在于国家利用旧有的日常传统和道德文化重塑民众的日常着装生活,由此形成了颇具复杂性的节约实践。

The present paper attempts to analyze for what reason reusing old clothes,which was an everyday practice in Shanghai,was successfully incorporated into the national political endeavor. It contends that,not only did the state play an indispensable role in promoting this practice but it also applied the established tradition and moral culture to reconstructing everyday life and campaigning thrift.