罗布麻与棉混纺纱线及植物染面料的性能研究

Study on properties of apocynum and cotton blended yarns and resultant fabrics by plant dyes

为探究罗布麻/棉混纺纱线及其植物染面料的性能指标,本文设计了三种不同比例罗布麻与棉的混纺纱线,分别为20/80、30/70、40/60,采用植物染料对混纺纱线制成的针织面料进行染色,测试分析了不同混纺比对成纱质量和织物性能的影响及植物染色前后织物性能、抗菌性的变化。结果表明:随着罗布麻纤维含量的增加,混纺纱线断裂强力、断裂伸长率均逐渐降低,条干不匀率增加,毛羽指数变大;混纺织物顶破性、耐磨性逐渐降低,透气性、硬挺度和毛细效应逐渐增大,植物染料染色后织物顶破性、透气性和硬挺度较染色前均有不同程度的下降,耐磨性则明显增强。织物抗菌性随着罗布麻纤维含量的增加而变大,对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌和白色念珠菌的抑菌率分别由59%增加到84%,62%增加到82%和30%增加到38%,但并未完全达到标准要求;而采用植物染料染色后,对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌和白色念珠菌的抑菌率分别达到了97%、97%、82%及以上,全部达到标准要求,尤其是对白色念珠菌的抑菌率。

The apocynum fiber is known as the"king of wild fiber"and its resultant fabrics have good softness and moisture absorption with wear comfortably and antibacterial health care.However,apocynum fiber is short,easy to be scattered in the spinning process,which leads to poor spinnability,particularly for pure fiber.In the current researches,blending with other fibers is a good way to solve the above problems in spinning.The performance of the blended fabric meets the requirements of consumption and is favored by consumers.The plant dye is a natural environmental protection dye that is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory.After plant dyeing,the fabric has a natural color with good antibacterial property.It can be clearly noted that the antibacterial finishing and dyeing can be completed in one step in the plant dyeing process."China’s 13^(th) Five-Year Development Plan for Textile Industry"was proposed to strengthen the research on the development and utilization of renewable fiber and biomass pigment dyeing.The study of apocynum and plant dyes not only meets the needs of the transformation and upgrading of textile industry,but also plays an important role in reducing dyeing and finishing wastewater and carbon emission.In order to obtain apocynum blended yarn and resultant fabrics by plant dyes,the spinning and weaving processes and their key parameters were optimized and the leuco compound dyeing method was used for dyeing.Firstly,three kinds of blending ratios of 20/80,30/70 and 40/60 respectively for apocynum/long-staple cotton were designed.The strength,evenness and hairiness index of the blended yarns were tested.After weaving,three kinds of plant dyes,sweet nectarine,olive green and chrysanthemum yellow were used to dye the fabrics with different blending ratios.The capillary effect,bursting property,air permeability,wear resistance and stiffness and flexibility of the fabric before and after dyeing were tested.Finally,the antibacterial property and antibacterial durability of the fabric before and after dyeing were evaluated.In this paper,the two kinds of textile materials with natural properties are combined to develop the plant dyed fabric of apocynum fiber,which not only enriches the variety of apocynum products,but also solves the problem of insufficient antibacterial properties of apocynum fiber after blending with other fibers through the superposition of antibacterial properties by the plant dyes and apocynum fiber.The results show that with the increase of apocynum fiber content,the breaking strength and elongation at break of blended yarns gradually decrease and the unevenness and hairiness index increase.The bursting and wear resistance of blended fabrics decrease gradually,while the air permeability,stiffness and capillary effect increase gradually.After dyeing with plant dyes,the bursting,air permeability and stiffness of fabrics decrease to different degrees,while the wear resistance increases obviously.The antibacterial activity of the fabric increases with the increase of apocynum fiber content,and the antibacterial rates of Escherichia coli,Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans increase from 59%to 84%,62%to 82%and 30%to 38%,respectively,but still do not meet the standard requirements.After plant dyeing,the antibacterial rates of Escherichia coli,Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans reach 97%,97%and 82%,respectively,all of which meet the standard requirements.The combination of the apocynum fiber and plant dye provides enlightenment for natural antibacterial textile research and development.From a consumer’s point of view,the apocynum plant dyed fabrics have good performances in terms of bacteriostasis and comfort to skin,which satisfies consumers’pursuit of ecological environmental protection and functionality.From the enterprise point of view,the apocynum plant dyed fabrics have high added values with short dyeing and printing process,which can meet the enterprises’needs of energy conservation,emissions reduction and green development.The research results provide suggestions for the design and development of natural antibacterial textiles.