基于扎染中扎结技艺形成的褶皱艺术分析及创新应用

Analysis and innovative application of fold art based on tie-dyeing techniques

为使扎染中扎结技艺形成的褶皱艺术在现代服装中得到更好的应用,文章依据扎结后面料褶皱是否拆除扎结束缚将其分为扎结褶皱及扎后褶皱。通过实践不同扎结技艺,归纳扎结褶皱与扎后褶皱的不同审美特征,总结出了不同扎结技艺形成褶皱具有的点、线、面性特征。基于扎染中扎结技艺的褶皱分析了在现代服饰的应用案例,并总结应用方法,同时以此进行了创新设计,巧妙地将民间工艺文化与现代服饰文化进行整合集成。

In recent years,China has attached great importance to the construction of socialist culture and vigorously promoted the development of cultural undertakings and cultural industries.As an important part of traditional culture,traditional handicrafts have received particular attention.Tie-dyeing,as a representative of Chinese folk handicrafts,has also been further developed.However,in recent years,the application of tie-dyeing elements in clothing by designers and clothing brands is limited.Tie-dyed patterns are popular,but other process elements of tie-dyeing are rarely involved.A fabric texture with unique handmade charm has taken shape as a result of the folds formed by the tie-dyeing technique during the tie-dyeing process.If a designer or a clothing brand can make full use of the fold art formed by the tie-dyeing technique,not only can the shackles of tie-dyeing in the application method be broken,but also the aesthetic level can be improved from two-dimension space to three-dimensional space,which provides new ideas for the innovative application of traditional craftsmanship in contemporary clothing design.This paper mainly uses the research methods of practical exploration and comparative analysis,and analyzes the characteristics of different folds formed by different tying methods through practice,summarizes the rules of fold art,and explores the application of fold art formed by tie-dyeing techniques in clothing.After sufficient and in-depth research,the article draws the following conclusions:i)There are various forms of fabric folds formed in tie-dyeing.According to the fact whether the fabric folds formed by tie-dyeing have been removed from the tie-dyeing or not,folds are divided into tied folds and post-tying folds.Both of them change the original shape of the surface of the fabric and enhance the layering and three-dimensional sense of the fabric,but they are obviously different in terms of artistic characteristics:the tied folds are firm,dense and heavy,while the post-tying folds are obviously rebound,light and flexible.ii)The characteristics of fabric folds formed by different tying techniques in tie-dyeing are different.The article elaborates on more than a dozen specific methods under the three tying methods of sewing method,tying method and tool method with illustrations.The article analyzes the features of the tied folds and post-tying folds formed by the tying method one by one,and finally summarizes the fold features formed by the three types of tying methods in point features,linear features and surface features.iii)The article analyzes three application cases corresponding to the point,line and surface features of folds,and summarizes the practical problems existing in the application cases of folds based on tie-dyeing techniques in modern clothing.First,because the folds are out of vogue,consumers’acceptance of this type of clothing is not high;second,this type of clothing lacks the unique charm of tie-dyeing,and it is difficult to spread the traditional tie-dyeing culture in actual wearing.iv)In view of the existing problems,the article proposes two application methods.One is to pay attention to the fusion of folds and tie-dyed patterns in clothing application,so that tie-dyed fabrics with fold characteristics can be preserved through the modern tie-dyeing process after the tie-dyeing,printing and dyeing process,in which way,the distinctive folds and patterns in the tie-dyeing process can be permanently preserved.The folds and patterns can also be presented in different fabrics,and transparent fabrics are used to form folds,and then the tie-dyed fabrics are placed on the lower layer to make consumers truly associate tie-dyed folds with tie-dyed patterns.The second is to combine the point,line,and surface characteristics of folds with various parts of the garment in application to give full play to the characteristics of folds,so that folds have both aesthetic and practical functions.v)Based on the application method,the article shows the innovative design clothing that incorporates tie-dyed patterns and folds.The series of clothing combines the fold art formed by the tie-dyeing technique as a process product of tie-dyeing with modern clothing,which is in line with modern consumers’aesthetic standard.As a result,the traditional tie-dyeing art works are in line with modern times and have more characteristics of the times.Based on practice,the article intuitively displays and deeply analyzes the characteristics of folds formed by various tying techniques,analyzes the problems existing in application cases,and proposes application methods.The article digs deeply into the traditional tie-dyeing art from a new perspective,and skillfully integrates folk craft culture with modern clothing culture,so as to inspire the innovative inheritance of traditional handicrafts,and make traditional national handicrafts more diverse and endow them with artistic expression.