簇锦攒花——《竹林大士出山图》中安南“攒花巾”的审美意趣与文化表达

Shape Silk into Flowers:The aesthetic interest and cultural expression of Annam’s"Cuan Hua Towel Cap"in the"The Mahasattva of Truc Lam leaves the Mountain"

《竹林大士出山图》是现存古代卷轴画中屈指可数地完全描绘越南历史典故的图像。其中,攒花巾是最具特色的服饰元素,男子首服“以花为饰”成为安南陈朝时期的社会风俗。本文以此为切入点,针对攒花巾其使用的历史动因展开探讨。研究表明,图像中的攒花巾极大程度上借鉴了宋代男子首服中簪插花朵的装饰观。

"The Mahasattva of Truc Lam leaves the Mountain"is an extremely rare image that completely depicts the historical allusions of Vietnam in the existing ancient scroll paintings.The Cuan Hua towel cap is one of the most characteristic costumes,the men’s hats"decorated with flowers"became the costoms in Chen Annam.This paper takes this as the source of the problem,discuss the reasons for using the Cuan Hua towel cap.The resea rch shows that the Cuan Hua towel cap in the image borrows heavily from the decorative concept of wearing flowers on men’s hats in the Song Dynasty.