日本奈良时代的唐制圆领袍研究——以正仓院所藏大歌袍为例

Research on the Round Neck Robes in Japan’s Nara Period:Taking the Singer’s Robe in the Shosoin as an Example

圆领袍是中国隋唐时期男子主流服饰之一,并对同时期日本袍服产生影响。文章以日本正仓院所藏大歌袍为研究对象,结合唐代圆领袍的相关文物图像及文献资料,分析其形制、纹样和面料特色,进而探讨日本奈良时代袍服对中国唐代袍服多方面的承袭。得出大歌袍不论是否直接出自唐朝,或由朝鲜半岛间接传入,亦或是日本匠人对唐代袍服的仿制,该服为中国唐代圆领缺胯袍形制和风格的结论。

The round neck robe was one of the mainstream men’s clothing in the Sui and Tang Dynasties of China,and influenced on Japanese robes in the same period.This paper takes the singer’s robe in the Shosoin as the research object,combining with the relevant cultural relics and documents of the Tang Dynasty round neck robes,analyzes its shape,pattern and fabric characteristics,and then discusses the inheritance of Japanese robes from Nara era to Chinese Tang dynasty robes.It is concluded that whether the singer’s robe is directly from the Tang Dynasty,or indirectly introduced from the Korean peninsula,or a Japanese craftsman’s imitation of the Tang Dynasty robe,the clothing is the shape and style of the Chinese Tang Dynasty round neck robe.