农耕印迹:扎染菱形纹样作为布依语“Ndaeh Sengh”的解读研究

Agricultural Imprinting: A Study on the Interpretation of Tie-dye Rhombic Pattern as Bouyei "Ndaeh Sengh"

目的菱形纹样是我国古老的几何纹样之一,其历史悠久、应用广泛,在不同地域和文化背景下被赋予了不同的文化内涵,厘清纹样的在地性符号所指,是提升传统工艺传承与设计创新的方法路径。方法以贵州花戛乡布依族扎染技艺中的菱形纹样为研究个案,结合人类学的田野调查法和艺术设计学的比较研究法,对花戛布依族服装配饰中的扎染菱形纹样进行综合考证和分析。结论认为花戛扎染菱形纹样是布依族日用器物“升”的形态转译,是农耕背景下布依人祈求丰收的文化符号载体。有着文化符号功能的菱形“Ndaeh Sengh”纹样,与布依人生活、习俗、地域环境等方面存在多维的联结,“Ndaeh Sengh”越多代表农作物收成越好,寓意丰收和富足。“Ndaeh Sengh”作为农耕记忆背景下布依族集体无意识原型形式的外化,其制作工艺和纹样所承载的文化记忆对于非遗保护、工艺传承、非遗设计等方面都有一定的理论指导意义。

The rhombic pattern is one of the ancient geometric patterns in China,which has a long history and is widely used,and has been endowed with different cultural connotations in different regions and cultural backgrounds.Clarifying the locational symbol signification of the patterns is a way to promote the inheritance of traditional crafts and design innovation.Taking the rhombic pattern in the tie-dye skills of the Bouyei in Huajia township of Guizhou Province as a case study,combining the field investigation of anthropology and the comparative study of art design,the tie-dye rhombic pattern in the clothing and accessories of the Bouyei in Huajia township was comprehensively researched and analyzed.The conclusion is that the tie-dye rhombic pattern of Huajia is the form translation of"Sheng",the daily objects of the Bouyei,and it is the cultural symbol carrier for Bouyei to pray for ample harvests under the agricultural background.The rhombic"Ndaeh Sengh"pattern,which has the function of cultural symbol,has multi-dimensional links with the life,customs and regional environment of Bouyei.More"Ndaeh Sengh"patterns represent the better harvest of crops,implying harvest and abundance."Ndaeh Sengh",as the externalization of the collective unconscious prototype form of Bouyei under the background of agricultural memory,the has certain theoretical guiding significance in terms of cultural cultural memory carried by its production skills and patterns for the protection of intangible heritage,craft transmission,and design of intangible cultural heritage,etc.