化妆品中保湿剂的拮抗与增效作用探究

Research on Antagonistic and Synergistic Effects of Moisturizers in Cosmetics

为研究化妆品中保湿剂组合搭配后产生的拮抗与增效作用,本文以角质层水分含量测试作为评价手段,选取了甘油、D-泛醇、透明质酸钠,这几种常见的保湿剂作为研究对象,分别测试这三种保湿剂进行组合搭配后产生的拮抗或增效现象,并研究了两亲分子对拮抗作用的影响。此外,还通过红外分析(FTIR)对组合物间的拮抗或增效作用机理进行了研究。结果表明:(1)甘油与透明质酸钠组合搭配时,会产生拮抗现象;(2)神经酰脂与D-泛醇均能降低甘油与透明质酸钠之间的拮抗现象。(3)当神经酰脂、D-泛醇、透明质酸钠、甘油组合搭配时,保湿性能增效显著。

Moisturizers used in cosmetic formulation, may impact moisturizing properties to product. In order to study the antagonism and synergistic effect,several common moisturizers were selected as the object to research the changes of moisturizing effect when they were used alone or in combination. The moisture content of stratum corneum was used as the evaluation method of moisturizing performance. First, glycerol, D-Panthenol, saccharideisomerate and sodium hyaluronate were selected as the research objects to test the antagonistic or synergistic effects of the combination of these three moisturizers. In addition, the antagonistic or synergistic mechanism between the compositions was studied by infrared analysis(FTIR). To study the changes of water content in the stratum corneum after using their aqueous solutions. The results showed that:(1) the combination of glycerol and sodium hyaluronate will produce antagonism;(2)Bothglycolipids and d-panthenol can reduce the antagonism between glycerol and sodium hyaluronate.(3) When glycolipids, d-panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and glycerol are combined, the moisturizing performance increases significantly.