基于全自动电脑横机的仿蕾丝织物设计与产品开发

Design and product development of imitation lace fabric based on the automatic computerized flat knitting machine

为结合当前针织服装的市场需求和流行趋势,实现纬编仿蕾丝织物设计,打造针织拼接蕾丝的产品,文章基于全自动电脑横机Stoll 530HP的编织工艺,以镂空花型编织装置(Stoll-devoréknit)开发了具有仿蕾丝效果的创意织片,完成由设计到成品生产的可操作化开发过程。从编织特性、工艺原理、纱线选择、花型设计及外观形态进行分析,将编织工艺与织物设计完美结合,为纬编针织服装产品的开发提供了一定的创新设计思路,同时也提升了产品的商业价值及市场竞争力。相较于传统型的针织拼接蕾丝面料的缝制过程,此设计思路于生产企业而言,缩短了产品制作周期,减少了额外的人工成本;于消费者而言,不透明区域与透明区域的无拼接缝份过渡,可给予消费者更好的穿着体验和舒适度。

In order to combine the current market demand and fashion trends of knitted garments,the design of weft-knitted lace-imitation fabrics was realized to create knitted and lace products.Based on the fully automatic computerized flat knitting machine Stoll 530HP equipment,creative fabric with imitation lace effect was developed by using the Stoll devoréknit as the technical core,and the development process from design presentation to finished product was realized.The knitting characteristics,process principle,yarn selection,pattern design and appearance form were examined,and the knitting process and fabric design were combined perfectly,which not only provides certain innovative design ideas for the development of weft-knitted garment products,but also improves the products'commercial value and market competitiveness.Compared with the traditional sewing process of knitted lace fabric,this design idea shortens the production cycle and reduces extra labor costs for manufacturers.For consumers,the seamless transition between opaque and transparent areas also provides consumers with higher wearing experience and comfort.