中国古代笔记小说中纺织服饰再研究的新路径

A New Path to Restudy Textile Clothing in Ancient Chinese Literary Sketches

[研究意义]中国古代笔记小说中的纺织服饰信息多被学界忽视,仅作为辅助材料使用,导致无法窥见中国古代老百姓生活的纺织服饰史和文化。[研究方法]文章基于中国古代笔记小说,对其纺织服饰信息进行收集、整理和分析,[研究结果与结论]研究认为:①国内外相关研究呈现研究人数小众化、研究内容碎片化、研究结果差异化的特点。研究深度呈现不平衡性,微观层面的研究较少,中观、宏观层面的研究还没有形成相关研究成果。②中国古代笔记小说和现有“可信文献”中相关信息的相悖与考辨式研究,可以开启新的认识大门,可以突破研究的“瓶颈”,获得新的认识,起到证史、补史、改史之目的,这必然会成为中国古代笔记小说中纺织服饰研究领域成为国内外研究的热点。③中国古代笔记小说中纺织服饰再研究可在六个方面进行深入研究。探讨中国古代笔记小说中的纺织服饰神话传说、习俗禁忌与社会背景的关联;作为世俗生活信息之源的笔记小说,通过分析其中纺织服饰品的描写,可以全面展现中国古代世俗纺织服饰生活,因为现有文本中的相关信息和考古实物多是贵族的纺织服饰生活,并不是中国古代平民的生活写照;探索中国古代笔记小说中关涉古代时尚的纺织技术和服饰,揭示其如何引起一个时代的文化变迁、社会变迁;基于中国古代笔记小说中的纺织服饰信息,设计出新的纺织服饰类非物质文化遗产;基于中国古代笔记小说中的纺织机械信息,系统地研究中国古代纺织机械史,对各种涉及纺织机械的构件的断代进行深入研究,为中国古代纺织机械的复原研究提供可信的支撑。基于中国古代笔记小说中的古代织物图案,系统研究中国古代织物图案的变迁,从织物图案的角度来研究古代织机的变迁,以此可以从相关文本中关于织物图案的记载中判断出当时织机的类型。④中国古代笔记小说中的纺织服饰研究的难点是在进行中国古代笔记小说中纺织服饰研究的基础上,尝试将文本、考古、美术作品、机械史、复原复刻研究有机地结合起来,试图构建古代纺织服饰的世俗史,并将这种世俗史中积极向上的精神构建成当代中国文化的一个重要表现因素,做到传播中国文化和扩大世界对中国文化理解、认同的目的。

The textile clothing information in ancient Chinese literary sketches is mostly ignored by the academic circles.They are only used as auxiliary materials,which does not make it possible to see the history and culture of textile clothing of ordi⁃nary people in ancient China.Based on the ancient Chinese Sketchbooks,this article collects,sorts out and analyzes the textile clothing information on them.Studies indicate that①related researches at home and abroad show the characteristics of a small number of researchers,fragmentation of research content and differentiation of research results.The depth of research is unbal⁃anced,the micro-level research is less,and the meso-level and macro-level research have not yet formed relevant research re⁃sults.②Relevant information of contradict and textual research in ancient Chinese sketchbooks and the existing"credible litera⁃ture"can open a new door of knowledge,break through the"bottleneck"of research,gain new knowledge,and serve the purpose of verifying,supplementing and correcting history.This will inevitably become the research hotspot of textile clothing research of Chinese sketchbooks and the domestic and foreign scholar's research hotpot.③There are 6 aspects to further study the textile clothing in ancient Chinese sketchbooks.Firstly,we can discuss the direct connection between the customs and taboos,myths and legends about textile clothing in ancient Chinese sketchbooks and the social background of that time.Secondly,as the source of information about secular life,analyzing the description of textile clothing in Chinese literary sketches can fully show the secular textile clothing life in ancient China.Because the relevant information in the existing texts and archaeological ob⁃jects are mostly the textile clothing life of the nobles rather than that of civilians.Thirdly,we can explore textile technology and clothing related to ancient fashion in ancient Chinese notebook novels,and reveal how it caused cultural and social changes of an era.Fourthly,designing new intangible cultural heritage of textile clothing is based on the information of textile clothing in an⁃cient Chinese literary sketches.In addition,it can provide credible support for the restoration research of ancient Chinese textile machinery systematically based on the textile machinery information in ancient Chinese sketchbooks.Last but not least,it can judge the type of loom at that time from the records of fabric patterns in relevant texts by researching the changes of fabric pat⁃terns in ancient time systematically and the changes of ancient looms from the perspective of fabric patterns based on the an⁃cient fabric patterns in ancient Chinese sketchbooks.④The difficulty in the study of textile clothing in ancient Chinese note⁃books is that on the basis of this study,we try to combine the texts,archaeology,art works,mechanical history and the study of restoration and reproduction,and attempt to construct the secular history of ancient textile clothing,and build the positive spirit in the secular history into an important performance factor of contemporary Chinese culture to spread Chinese culture and ex⁃pand the world's comprehension and recognition of Chinese culture.