唐宋妆造中花饰特征探析

Analysis on the Characteristics of Flower Ornaments in Makeup in Tang and Song Dynasties

[研究意义]中国的花饰文化至唐宋时期发展至鼎盛,唐宋妆造花饰的特征研究对于现代妆容和首饰的设计起到一定的借鉴和启示意义。[研究方法]文章利用文献研究、图像学分析等方法,以唐宋时期花饰相关的出土文物作为研究线索,对唐宋花簪、妆面花形种类进行归纳分析,研究唐宋妆造花饰的类型和特征。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:①唐宋时期花饰主要分为头花和面花,头花以材质和工艺为区分主要分为绢花、绒花、缠花、点翠和花丝镶嵌头簪。②唐宋时期面饰中的花饰结合研究可分为花卉形、几何形和其它形状,唐代以花卉形居多,色彩浓烈造型夸张,宋代以几何形居多,色彩淡雅造型精致。③花饰造型和材质的发展与政治、经济、社会、文化、等诸多因素息息相关,体现了不同时代审美意识的变化。唐宋时期花饰特征呈现由多元向单一,由繁杂向简洁的趋势,花饰由装饰之用变为被赋予更多政治和文化意义。

China's flower decoration culture developed to its peak in the Tang and Song Dynasties.The research on the characteristics of makeup and flower decoration in the Tang and Song Dynasties has a certain reference and enlightenment signif⁃icance for the design of modern makeup and jewelry.Using the methods of literature research,image analysis and other meth⁃ods,this paper takes the unearthed cultural relics related to flower decorations in the Tang and Song Dynasties as research clues,makes an inductive analysis of the types of flower hairpins and make-up face flowers in the Tang and Song Dynasties,and studies the types and characteristics of flower decorations in the Tang and Song Dynasties.The research points out that:(1)The flower ornaments in Tang and Song Dynasties are mainly divided into head flower and face flower.The head flower is divided in⁃to silk flower,velvet flower,twine flower,dot emerald and filigree inlaid hairpin according to the material and craftsmanship.(2)The combination of floral decorations in the Tang and Song Dynasties can be divided into flower shapes,geometric shapes and other shapes.In the Tang Dynasty,most of them were flower shapes,with strong colors and exaggerated shapes.In the Song Dy⁃nasty,most of them were geometric shapes,with elegant colors and exquisite shapes.(3)The development of flower decoration shapes and materials is closely related to politics,economy,society,culture and many other factors,reflecting the changes in aes⁃thetic awareness in different times.In the Tang and Song dynasties,the characteristics of floral decorations showed a trend from pluralism to singleness,from complex to concise,and floral decorations changed from decoration to being given more social sta⁃tus and political significance.There is no shortage of praise for flowers in traditional Chinese culture.The pursuit of flowers makes the style of hairpins prevail,which also affects women's accessories and makeup.In the Tang and Song Dynasties,floral ornaments were included as an important part of makeup,and many categories of floral ornaments were derived from this.Flower decorations in Tang and Song Dynasties are mainly divided into headdresses and face decorations.According to different materi⁃als and craftsmanship,the types of flower hairpins are also different.The silk and velvet hairpins were popular in the Tang Dy⁃nasty,and the filigree inlay technique had reached a fine and superb level.Some of the precious headpins were supplemented with emerald-pointing techniques,making them more jewel-like.New forms,from the palace to the market,are all filled with the wind of hairpins.Floral ornaments were the most distinctive Huatian red makeup in the Tang Dynasty.In addition to the flow⁃er shape dominated by plum blossoms,there are also drop-shaped geometric shapes and other shapes that are abstract but aes⁃thetically pleasing.The material is usually gold,silver,feather emerald,full of rich and bright makeup.The elegant style of the Song Dynasty led to some innovations in the material of the flower tin,replacing gold and silver with pearls,adding an elegant and beautiful color to the makeup.The development of flower decorations in Tang and Song Dynasties is often inseparable from many factors such as politics,economy,society,culture,etc.At the same time,it is not a certain type of dominance.Based on the diversification of people's aesthetics and needs,flower decorations also show a variety of varieties and the characteristics of blooming flowers.Traditional flower ornaments are an indispensable part of ancient Chinese makeup,and their distinctive mor⁃phological characteristics are also the epitome of the aesthetic trend of the times,and still have important reference significance for today's makeup design.