从“凌波罗袜”到“不袜而缠”--小脚与袜的历史关系探析

From Lissome Footsteps to Foot Binding with No Socks--Study on the Historical Relationship between Bound Feet and Women's Socks

[研究意义]对小脚的审美在于纺织品包裹后的整体观感,袜在其中有着重要作用,但这一直是服饰史研究中忽视的,对于小脚与“袜”流变的梳理与考证有助于拓展服饰史研究以及从物质文化角度重新审视缠足历史。[研究方法]文章从考证角度出发,结合实物与文献,采用历史学与艺术史的研究方法,梳理女袜从有底到无底的转变,并溯源与考证不同时期小脚女袜的名谓、式样与着用方式。[研究结论]研究发现,文学上率先出现的女袜名谓促成了对小脚的审美,其复杂多样性反映了缠足在特定时期的兴盛;历史上“不袜而缠”的现象并不是袜对小脚不重要的说明,而是预示缠足衰退的标识;小脚袜的发展与演变影响了女性社会性别与身份塑造。

It was necessary for women to wear socks during the foot-binding period,and this also affected the aesthetics of the bound feet.However,the study of women's hosiery has not been taken into account in the history of costume.The article adopts a historical and archaeological approach to trace the transformation of women's socks from bottomed to bottomless,and to trace the names,patterns and usage of foot-binding stockings in different periods.Throughout history,women's slender feet have been admired and praised for a long time.But in reality it was more about the overall feeling of the feet when paired with the socks,and this was true whether or not there was foot binding.The connection between bound feet and socks was more about the ability to create a woman's elegant posture and the noble footwear that distinguished social status,so socks was always an impor⁃tant part of the upper class woman's makeup.The first literary names for women's socks contributed to the aestheticization of bound feet,and that their diversity reflected the flourishing of foot binding at a particular time;the historical phenomenon of"binding without socks"was not an indication that socks were unimportant for bound feet,but rather a sign of the decline of foot binding.Therefore,we can see that women's socks was transformed in different periods in terms of name and style in order to achieve its gender shaping and social differentiation,and also formed a specific style in different periods,of course,these were formed in the context of foot-binding.The imagination of desire and aesthetic pattern of footwear for ancient women is a part of the study of ancient Chinese costumes that cannot be ignored,and can also provide historical experience for the design and pro⁃motion of modern footwear.