民国时期的妆品与都市女性妆容形象解析

Analysis of Cosmetics and Urban Women's Makeup Images in the Period of the Republic of China

[研究意义]本文对民国时期的妆品及都市女性妆容形象进行了一个较为全面的分析梳理,丰富了民国妆饰研究的理论领域。[研究方法]文章以一手的历史文字材料、图像材料作为基础,对民国时期的化妆品进行分类研究,并细化分析民国都市女性的妆容形象,归纳各个部分的妆容特点。[研究结论]研究认为:①民国时期的妆品品类多样,大致可分为面容妆饰类、身体保养类、清洗气味类。②民国都市女性的妆容形象整体追求自然、健康、摩登;面部整体妆容以自然、红润为美;眉妆承袭明清眉妆,流行纤细、弯曲的长娥眉,整体造型较为自然;唇妆与传统中国唇妆相差较大,偏好保持女性本身唇部形状,口红颜色均为红色系;眼部成为重点的妆饰部分之一,使用眼影与睫毛来强调眼部之美。其他妆饰还包括牙齿美白与香氛气味等方面。

This paper makes a comprehensive analysis of the makeup products and the makeup image of urban women in the period of the Republic of China,which enriches the theoretical field of makeup research in the Republic of China.Based on first-hand historical textual and pictorial materials,the article categorizes and studies the cosmetics of the Republican period,and refines and analyzes the makeup images of urban women in the Republic of China,summarizing the characteristics of each part of the makeup.During the Republican period,with the establishment of the new government and the influx of Western capital economy,women's minds were liberated and they became independent;this made the demand for women's products in the Republican market grow,among which the market demand for cosmetics continued to expand.The number of makeup enterprises proliferated during the Republican period,with a variety of makeup products,which can be roughly divided into facial makeup,body mainte⁃nance,cleaning and odor.In the period of the Republic of China,most of the cosmetics for facial makeup were facial makeup products,such as per⁃fume powder,perfume powder honey,goose egg powder,rouge and so on,followed by lipstick.Body care products mainly in⁃clude white jade cream,snow cream,hair growth oil,auburn oil and other products,whose functions are mainly facial moisturiz⁃ing and beauty,as well as head anti-hair loss,hair care and hair growth.During the period of the Republic of China,cleaning odor products also belonged to cosmetics,mainly including toothpaste,tooth powder,soap,perfume,toilet water,etc.The makeup image of urban women in the Republic of China pursues nature,health and modernity as a whole.The first step of women's facial makeup is powder dressing,which aims to make the skin white,tender and delicate;Then comes the blush,adding red color to the skin of the cheeks;the overall facial makeup is natural and rosy for beauty.The eyebrow makeup was inherited from the Ming and Qing dynasties,and the slim,curved long e-brows were popular,with a more natural overall look;the lip makeup was different from the traditional Chinese lip makeup,preferring to keep the shape of the woman's original lips,and the lipstick color was red;the eyes became one of the key parts of the makeup,using eye shadow and eyelashes to em⁃phasize the beauty of the eyes.Other makeups include cosmetic dentistry,with white teeth as beauty,and fragrant scents,with a focus on body fragrance.