摘要
[研究方法]针对中国改革开放以来男式T恤变迁的问题,运用文献研究与实物分析的方法,得到了中国男式T恤从传统内衣的形式逐渐向多元化、功能化、中性化方向发展的结论。[研究结果与结论]研究表明:①男士T恤的款式由内衣向外衣转变,其类别从单一化向多元化发展,如运动T恤、广告T恤等,款式细节变化主要来自于袖型、领口、下摆处;②男士T恤面料从最初单一的织物设计演变为如今综合工艺技术带来的多种面料组合设计,其功能可满足消费者不同的需求;③T恤图案色彩是展现男士风格魅力之处的关键点,随着时代的发展,其色彩呈多样化趋势,男性风格从强化性别向弱化性别转变,图案亦往中性化发展。究其男士T恤变迁的原因,主要有休闲服饰的流行、多元化商业营销、审美观念的多元化等因素推动着中国男士T恤的发展。
In view of the changes of men's T-shirts since China's reform and opening up,using the methods of literature re⁃search and physical analysis,this paper makes an in-depth development from the perspective of art and technology,science and culture,and comes to the conclusion that Chinese men's T-shirts are gradually developing from the form of traditional under⁃wear to diversification,functionality and neutrality.Research shows:(1)Early men's T-shirts were introduced into China and were not popular products.With the development of the times,the style of men's T-shirt has been transformed from inside to out⁃side and has become a popular dress.In the 1980s,men's T-shirts were conservative and single in style,such as white under⁃wear T-shirts and simple short sleeved round neck T-shirts.In the later stage,there was a"cultural shirt".With the emancipa⁃tion of the mind,people's ideas have changed.The fashionable leisure style in the 1990s has promoted the gradual individualiza⁃tion of men's T-shirt styles,such as sports T-shirts,and men's T-shirts with long sleeves and V-necks.With the advent of the 21st century,men's T-shirts have a variety of styles to meet the needs of different age groups,such as sleeveless T-shirts,short sleeved T-shirts,long sleeved T-shirts,etc.,and even their functions meet commercial needs,such as advertising T-shirts,tour⁃ism T-shirts,etc.Since the reform and opening up,its categories have developed from simplification to diversification.The changes of style details mainly come from the sleeve type,neckline and hem;(2)Men's T-shirt fabric has evolved from a single fabric design to a variety of fabric combination design brought by comprehensive technology.Its function can meet the different needs of consumers.Since the reform and opening up,China's men's T-shirt fabric has been accepted by consumers from the initial to the current different fabric properties to meet the needs of consumers.From passive acceptance to consumers'indepen⁃dent choice,it can be found that China's T-shirt fabric shows a functional trend.The technology of T-shirts in China is constant⁃ly changing.Nowadays,T-shirts are not only designed in pattern technology,but also break the process production method based on traditional knitted fabrics,highlight the combination method of special processes,and comprehensively use different process methods to make T-shirts convey different meanings.Chinese men's T-shirt fabrics range from pure cotton to silk,hemp,wool,various man-made fibers and blended fibers.The diversification of fabrics not only meets the needs of consumers,but also tends to functional development,which greatly widens the types of Chinese men's T-shirts;(3)T-shirt pattern color is the key point to show the charm of men's style.With the development of the times,its color shows a diversified trend.The diver⁃sity and inclusiveness of T-shirt pattern color meet the needs of different consumers.The male style has changed from strength⁃ening gender to weakening gender,and the pattern has also developed towards neutrality.Since the reform and opening up,the pattern of men's T-shirts in China has changed from strengthening gender differences to weakening gender,which reflects the di⁃versification of people's aesthetic ideas and is also an epitome of the changes of men's wear in China.The main reasons for the change of men's T-shirts are the popularity of casual clothes,diversified commercial marketing,diversified aesthetic concepts and other factors,which promote the development of Chinese men's T-shirts.To sum up,the men's T-shirt industry has experienced development against the current.Men's T-shirts can meet the needs of different occa⁃sions and age levels,making them irreplaceable and versatile for men.At the same time,they have also become a representative product for consumers in summer.From the bringing doctrine in the early stage of reform and opening up to China's independent innovation in the 21st century,T-shirt styles have developed from simplification to diversification,which promotes the merger of men's T-shirts inside and outside;Its fabrics tend to be functional from single,and technological innovation makes T-shirts more and more comfort-oriented,leisure and other functions oriented;Its pattern has also developed from strengthening gender to weakening gender.The fast-paced environmental changes have made the traditional male roles"big"changes,resulting in the development of T-shirt design to neutrality and becoming one of the representatives of fashion trends.Throughout the develop⁃ment history of T-shirts for 40 years,through the specific analysis of the changes of Chinese men's T-shirts since the reform and opening up,it is found that men's T-shirts are important in men's wear and have a far-reaching impact on Chinese men's wear.Men's T-shirts are developing in the direction of diversification,functionality and neutrality.With the popularity of casual wear,diversified commercial marketing and the promotion of aesthetic concepts,China's men's T-shirt industry has withstood the training of time and gradually appeared in all corners of the world.
作者
库偲雨
刘勇
李斌
KU Siyu;LIU Yong;LI Bin(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Wuhan Textile and Garment Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第5期92-98,共7页
Fashion Guide
基金
国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。
关键词
改革开放
男式T恤
款式
图案
变迁
Reform and Opening up
men's T-shirts
style
pattern
changes