明女子服饰中“饰”的艺术形式及其趣味解读

The Art Form and Interesting Interpretation of"Ornament"in Women's Clothing in Ming Dynasty

服饰作为社会意识外化的表征,能够从物质形态方面折射出人们的生活水平、思想观念及社会整体风貌。古代社会男尊女卑的思想承袭数百年,明朝中后期随着纺织手工业的发展,不少女性参与手工业的生产工作,其独立意识日益显现,封建观念对女性的思想禁锢有所松懈,使女性更加关注自身价值体现。随着手工、农商业的发达,空前繁荣的明中后期弥漫着奢靡之气,女子服饰在如此背景下争奇斗艳,姿彩纷呈。文章基于对明代中后期女子配饰的艺术性探究,从配饰的纹样与表现形式中,找寻当时社会形态下独特的趣味意识与人文价值,解读其背后反映的文化寓意。

Clothing as a representation of the externalization of social consciousness,can reflect people's living standards,ideas and overall social outlook from the aspect of material form.With the development of handicrafts and agricultural commerce,the unprecedented prosperity of the middle and late Ming Dynasty was filled with extravagance,and women's costumes competed against this background,with colorful appearances.Based on the artistic exploration of women's accessories in the middle and late Ming Dynasty,this article seeks the unique sense of interest and humanistic value under the social form at that time from the patterns and expressions of accessories,and interprets the cultural meaning reflected behind them.