西藏地方甘丹颇章时期新年庆典世俗礼服研究

A Study of the Secular Dresses for the New Year Celebrations in Gandan Pozhang Period of Xizang

甘丹颇章时期的新年庆典活动中有一套较为完备的世俗礼服穿戴体系。这套服饰体系是在五世达赖喇嘛时期确立,并逐渐体系化、制度化,其从样式、面料、纹饰以及使用场景等诸象征修辞的选择,都有着一整套的话语策略。它不仅显示出甘丹颇章政权建立初期通过追溯西藏历史和藏传佛教格鲁派的一些关键性时间,来建立其统治权威性的目的,也体现出了甘丹颇章政权希冀通过确立一套稳定的服饰礼仪来暗合佛教观念的意图。这套服饰体系在其后的发展中,随着清朝中央政府对西藏治理的深入,不仅呈现出文化多元共融的特点,其自身也叠加进了财富和身份等级区分的文化意涵。

In the New Year celebrations during the Ganden Phodang period,there was a relatively complete set of secular dress wearing system.This costume system was established during the time of the Fifth Dalai La ma,and gradually systemized and institutionalized.It has a complete set of discourse strategies for the selection of symbolic rhetoric such as style,fabric,ornamentation,and usage scenarios.It not only shows the purpose of es tablishing its ruling authority by tracing the history of Xizang and some key times of the Gelug Sect of Xizang Buddhism in the early days of the establishment of the Ganden Phozhang regime,but also shows that the Ganden Phozhang regime hopes to establish a one set a stable dress etiquette to coincide with the intent of the Buddhist concept.In the subsequent development of this costume system,with the deepening of the Qing Dynasty′s cen tral government′s governance of Xizang,it not only showed the characteristics of cultural diversity and inclusive ness,but also superimposed the cultural meaning of wealth and identity hierarchy.