基于平面切展法的服装皱褶结构设计探析

Research on garment wrinkle structure design based on plane cutting and unfolding method

平面切展法是在服装基础纸样上,通过平行展开和旋转展开两种拉展手段,实现造型余量的服装结构设计方法。服装皱褶具有三维空间立体感的造型特点,是重要的服装设计元素,主要包括自然褶和规律褶。依据人体结构特点及运动技能,结合服装造型特点,灵活应用平面切展方法,能够设计各种造型的服装皱褶纸样,能够为服装结构设计工作者提供参考。

Plane cut and development method is a method of garment structure design based on garment basic pattern,which realizes modeling allowance through parallel development and rotary development.Garment pleats,which have three-dimensional modeling characteristics,are important garment design elements,mainly including natural pleats and regular pleats.According to the characteristics of human body structure and sports skills,combined with the characteristics of clothing modeling,the flexible application of plane cutting and unfolding method can design various types of clothing wrinkle patterns.The conclusion can provide a reference for clothing structure designers.