明中后期江南地区庶民服饰演变与染织工艺发展关系探析

An Analysis of the Relationship between the Evolution of Plebeian’s Clothing and the Development of Dyeing and Weaving Technology in Jiangnan Area during the Middle and Late Ming Dynasty

服饰演变是社会变革的缩影,已成为研究社会文化变迁的重要视角。明中后期,染织产业专业分工加强,商品化程度提高,这种历史性变革与蚕桑、棉花、染料等经济作物种植面积扩大,织造技术得到改良,染色技术高度发展等息息相关。这无疑为明中后期江南地区庶民阶层个性化、多样化的服饰需求提供了物质和技术支撑。同时,庶民服饰的演变需求又促进了商品经济的发展,也是染织工艺进步的重要原因。就此来看,在染织工艺与庶民服饰的关系上,二者相互影响,互促共进。

Clothing evolution is the epitome of social change and has become an important perspective to study sociocultural change. During the middle and late Ming Dynasty,in the dyeing and weaving industry,the professional division of labor was strengthened and the commercialization degree was increased. This historic change was closely related to the expansion of the planting area of cash crops such as mulberry,cotton and natural dyes,the improvement of weaving technology and the high development of dyeing technology. Undoubtedly,this provided material and technical supports for the personalized and diversified clothing needs of the plebeian in Jiangnan area. At the same time,the evolution of the plebeian’s clothing needs promoted the development of commodity economy,and contributed a lot to the progress of dyeing and weaving technology. From this point of view,in the relationship between the dyeing and weaving technology and the plebeian’s clothing,both influenced each other and promoted mutual progress.