华冠丽服与堆金叠玉——布达拉宫藏珍宝服饰及其相关问题初探

Grace,Splendor with Jewels:The Treasure of Costumes of The Potala Palace and Other Issues Concerned

“珍宝服饰”(rin chen rgyan cha)是西藏甘丹颇章地方政权时期在布达拉宫等地举行新年庆典时相关人员所穿礼仪服饰的统称。按照文献记载,该类服饰是根据西藏早期宫廷服饰穿戴习俗,于17世纪由甘丹颇章第三任第巴·洛桑图多(sa skyong blo bzang mthu stobs)主持,制定后成为西藏甘丹颇章地方政府的宫廷礼仪范式,并一直展演到20世纪50年代末。目前,布达拉宫藏有较为完整的珍宝服饰相关文物,可为这一领域的研究提供重要实物资料。本文从珍宝服饰的历史变迁和服饰的习俗内容等方面加以阐述,尝试揭示珍宝服饰背后的文化内涵,亦为该类文物研究提供一种新的视角。

’Treasure of Costumes’,rin chen rgyan cha,is collectively called for the clothes with jeweled accessories worn by the people attending the grand New Year’ s ceremonial celebrations held in the Potala Palace and other occasions during the local administration under Gaden Podrang.As is documented,the kind of costumes in design and style following the traditional etiquettes and customs of the early court of Tibet were made under the official commission from the 3Regent,Depa Lobsang Thutop in the 17century,which had been serving as the model of the court ceremonial garments of the Gaden Podrang administration till the late 195 os.The Potala Palace houses the complete costumes with accessories as the objective witnesses for the study of the field.The historical changes and conventional customs of ’Treasure of Costume’ are reviewed in the thesis to look into the cultural implication of such remains from a different perspective.