中国蒙古族传统罟罟冠形制研究——基于法国国家图书馆藏《史集》中插图

Analysis on the shape and structure of Mongolian traditional Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations of the Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France

基于法国国家图书馆藏《史集》波斯细密画插图中几十身蒙元时期蒙古族贵妇形象均身着蒙古族传统服饰、头戴罟罟冠,文章通过文献、图像相结合的方法,根据其服用场合,分析研究图像中罟罟冠的基本形制、造型及其装饰特点。研究认为,《史集》插图中的罟罟冠形制特点除守丧时会只留兜帽及冠帔外,随着服用场合变化不大。罟罟冠仿生天鹅的造型以示图腾崇拜,上方下圆的结构特点诠释了男女结合的意义。其朵朵翎长度、羽团数量,兜帽颜色及冠帔长度的变化表现出罟罟冠的实用性被装饰性取代,成为身份地位的象征。中晚期罟罟冠装饰纹样频繁出现十字金纹,凸显贵族妇女中不乏景教徒身份。该版本《史集》插图为研究蒙元时期贵族妇女首服形制及其象征意义提供了珍贵的图像资料,通过展开系统深入研究可以更好地传承中国传统服饰文化。

Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh is a detailed history book of Mongolia compiled by the prime minister Rashid al-Din under an order issued by Ghazan Khan in 700 of the Islamic calendar(1310-1311 A.D.).After the book was finished,the royal family invested a great deal of manpower,material and financial resources to draw its illustrated edition,which was completed between 1306 A.D.and 1314 A.D.In this period,Persian miniatures had strong Mongolian characteristics.The facial shapes of the characters showed the image characteristics of Mongolians,and the clothing styles and patterns on the clothes also had the characteristics of Mongolian and even traditional Chinese costumes.Among them,Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France was drawn between 1425 A.D.and 1430 A.D.There are 15 Persian miniatures in the book that illustrate the Gu Gu crowns worn by aristocratic women of Mongolia,which were the headgear favored by women of the ethnic group at that time,and were very popular.The Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations are rich in color and clear in structure,which provide precious and detailed historical image data for us to study the shape and manufacture characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasties.Through reading the pictures,we can learn the color,pattern,shape,structure,collocation,wearing effect,and identity of the wearers,wearing occasions and other practical problems of the Gu Gu crowns.Combined with the ancient documents and images,we can further study and analyze the specific shape and system of the Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol(Yuan) period,the characteristics of wearing and the related cultural connotation behind them.Firstly,the 15 illustrated wearing scenes were classified,and the wearing characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were summarized to find out their regularity.Secondly,the characteristics of wearing the Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were compared,and the different meanings they represent were analyzed and studied.Finally,we concluded the shape characteristics and decorative effect of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol(Yuan) period,and summarized the cultural implication and national belief represented by Gu Gu crowns,as well as the fundamental reason why they were favored by Mongolian women for their enduring popularity.On this basis,the correspondence analysis method was used to study the relationship between the formative characteristics,occasion of wearing,cultural connotation and the identity,status and belief of the users.We concluded that the characteristics of the Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations of Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh collected in the National Library of France,except for only wearing the hood and crown cape in keeping vigil beside the coffin,changed little with the wearing occasions.The shape of the bionic swan showed totem worship,the structure features of the square above and the circle below explained the significance of the combination of men and women.It reflects that Mongolians believe in the "Mongke Tengri"(Eternal Heaven),and the modeling concept based on nature is beyond nature.The structure of being square at the top and circular at the bottom explains the significance of the combination of men and women.The length of crown feathers,the number of the ball feathers,the hood color and the cape length change showed that the usefulness of Gu Gu crowns was replaced by decoration,becoming a symbol of status.In the middle and late period,the gold cross pattern appeared frequently in the crown decoration,highlighting the identity of many noble women as disciples of Nestorianism.As a whole,Gu Gu crowns elongated the human body lines in a towering and beautiful shape,making people appear tall and in line with aesthetic characteristics.The luxurious decorative details highlighted the rich and leisure life of aristocratic women and their noble social rank and status in the Yuan Dynasty.The original symbolism took a back seat to the decorative function.This edition of Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh provides precious image information for the study of the shape and symbolic significance of aristocratic women’s headgear in the Mongol(Yuan) period.Through systematic studying and sorting out the structure,shape,material,pattern,production technology,etc.,it can better inherit Chinese traditional costume culture and inherit the traditional costume skills of China.The research results can provide inspiration and innovative ideas for the design and innovation of Chinese national costumes.Under the trend of global integration,the exchange of clothing culture among different countries is increasingly close.It is a shortcut for Chinese fashion to go to the world to retain and integrate the characteristics of national clothing.