纬编紧身面料拉伸与透气性能研究

Study on the Tensile and Breathable Properties of Weft Knitted Tight-Fitting Fabrics

为研究纬编紧身面料的透气性与拉伸性能,以棉纱、涤纶长丝、氨纶长丝为原料,采用纬平针结构,两种集圈+浮线的复合组织,设计生产了共8种弹力纬编针织紧身面料。对8款纬编紧身面料的横向拉伸性能和透气性进行测试,结果表明纬编紧身面料的织造方式显著影响织物的透气性能。横向拉伸实验测试中,浮线长度、线圈结构对纬向弹性影响较大;织物的弹性回复率与氨纶丝的线密度、占比及线圈长度有关。当组织结构相同时,弹性纱线密度大,占比高,线圈长,单次拉伸的力越小,弹性回复率越好。通过第1次拉伸力与氨纶丝3个因素的灰色关联度分析,得到这3个因素对第1次拉伸力都有较大的影响,其中氨纶含量占比影响最大。

In order to study the tensile and breathable properties of weft knitted tight fabrics,a total of 8 kinds of elastic weft knitted tight fabrics were designed and produced with cotton yarn,polyester filament and spandex filament as raw materials,using weft flat needle structure and two kinds of composite organization of loop and floating thread.The results show that the weft knitted fabric weaving method significantly affects the breathability of the fabric.In the experimental test of transverse stretch,the floating thread length and coil structure have a greater influence on the weft elasticity.The elastic recovery rate of the fabric is related to the thread density,the percentage of spandex yarn and the coil length.When the tissue structure is the same,the elastic yarn density is large,with high proportion and long coil.The smaller the single stretching force is,the better the elastic recovery rate is.Through the gray correlation analysis of the first stretching force and three factors of spandex yarn,it was concluded that all the three factors had a greater influence on the first stretching force,among which the percentage of spandex content had the greatest influence.